The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
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Mar 26, 2019 John Kettle, climbing coach, guide, and author who wrote Rock Climbing Technique. He recounts breaking a decade-long plateau to jump from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b with focused bouldering and technique work. Discussions cover precision drills, shoulder rehab, session efficiency, adapting bouldering gains to routes, and diet and supplements that boosted recovery.
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Train Hand Accuracy With Fixed-Feet Dynos
- Design drills that force hand accuracy like dynoing hands between sets while keeping feet fixed to train precise, committing catches.
- Progress drills toward pockets where accuracy demands are highest before attempting risky versions.
Fix Shoulders With Scapula Sets And IYT Rings
- Build shoulder posture by combining on-wall scapula-setting pauses (e.g., pause and set at every clip) with off-wall 'I, Y, T' ring exercises twice weekly.
- Keep off-wall work brief: three sets of five, twice a week sufficed.
Quit While Session Quality Holds
- Stop a session when performance clearly wanes rather than chasing volume; preserve the quality stimulus to trigger adaptation without excess microtrauma.
- Use feeling of diminished power or earlier failure in sets as your stop signal.
