The Sporkful The Seafood Proxy Battle Between China And Japan
Mar 30, 2026
Jason Tang, a Beijing-based restaurant critic, Wei-Hung Lee, a food writer and podcaster, and Kurumi Mori, a Tokyo reporter, explore how seafood politics reshaped markets. They tour Toyosu and Tsukiji, examine tuna flows and tourism shifts, and show how Japanese handling techniques and local sourcing changed sushi scenes in China and Japan.
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Why Tokyo Buys Tuna From Around The World
- Tokyo's Toyosu tuna auction sources fish globally, with seasons making New England tuna fetch top prices in September and October.
- Tuna often flies Boston→Tokyo for bidding, then may return to U.S. restaurants labeled as "from Japan," boosting perceived cachet.
China's Seafood Ban Didn't Collapse Japan's Exports
- China's 2011 and later bans on Japanese seafood cut its share of Japanese seafood exports from ~20% to nearly zero.
- Japan offset losses by redirecting exports to other markets, so overall Japanese seafood exports actually increased.
Tsukiji Vendors See Different Tourists Not Fewer Customers
- Vendors at Tsukiji say fewer Chinese tourists visit since November but overall tourist numbers are similar due to other nationalities.
- A roast pork stall owner told Kurumi Mori that locals still buy and Americans help fill gaps.