The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Aug 23, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.
Aug 12, 2019 • 1h 23min
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
Jul 24, 2019 • 1h 28min
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
Jun 28, 2019 • 1h 7min
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
Jun 12, 2019 • 1h 11min
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.
May 29, 2019 • 1h 12min
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
May 15, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist’s Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
Apr 2, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
6 snips
Mar 26, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
John Kettle, climbing coach, guide, and author who wrote Rock Climbing Technique. He recounts breaking a decade-long plateau to jump from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b with focused bouldering and technique work. Discussions cover precision drills, shoulder rehab, session efficiency, adapting bouldering gains to routes, and diet and supplements that boosted recovery.
Mar 18, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
