The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Jan 15, 2020 • 1h 12min
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
Dec 18, 2019 • 1h 5min
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.
Dec 5, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
Nov 27, 2019 • 1h 8min
Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.
Nov 22, 2019 • 1h 15min
TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
Kris Hampton, climbing coach, shares 6 movement drills to improve climbing. They discuss the balance between work and climbing, self-awareness, exploring new techniques, and specific movement drills like Deadstops. They highlight the importance of pace and weight in climbing, incorporating movement drills into climbing sessions, and the value of experimentation and playfulness in climbing.
Oct 30, 2019 • 1h 40min
TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
Oct 24, 2019 • 1h 20min
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.
Oct 17, 2019 • 1h 10min
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
Oct 2, 2019 • 1h 8min
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Dr. Tyler Nelson, finger strength expert, discusses a simple finger training protocol on a hangboard and adjustments for climbers at different experience levels. They also explore the benefits of a simple training protocol, the importance of finger training for climbing, and upcoming episodes covering various topics.
Sep 9, 2019 • 1h 23min
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
Charlie Manganiello, strength coach at Elemental Performance and habit-based climber trainer, and Alex Bridgewater, ClimbStrong coach and program developer, chat about common climbing training pitfalls. They cover lifestyle limits like sleep and nutrition. They discuss over-planning versus simple consistency, doing too much, objective self-testing, intensity distribution, tapering and realistic goal setting.
