New Books Network Karima Moyer-Nocchi, "The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese: From Ancient Rome to Modern America" (Columbia UP, 2026)
Mar 20, 2026
Karima Moyer-Nocchi, a culinary historian and professor at the University of Siena, traces macaroni and cheese from ancient Rome to modern America. She explores medieval pasta mobility, Renaissance baked recipes, religious fasting adaptations, the 18th-century macaroni fashion, industrial democratization, Kraft’s innovations, and overlooked Black culinary contributions. Short, surprising turns in food and culture emerge throughout.
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Mac and Cheese As A Historical Cultural Thread
- Macaroni and cheese functions as a cultural thread linking Italy, France, Britain, and the United States across centuries.
- Karima Moyer-Nocchi traced the dish through class, race, politics, technology, and taste to show its broader social significance.
Macaroni Was A Broad Medieval Pasta Category
- In the Middle Ages macaroni was a broad category covering many pasta shapes, not just the hollow tube we think of today.
- Medieval macaroni preparations paired pasta with grated cheese, fat (often meat broth), and sweet spices, adapting by region and occasion.
Religious Fasting Drove Macaroni's Flexibility
- Religion and fasting shaped macaroni and cheese's adaptability, letting it be luxurious without breaking meatless rules.
- Cooks swapped meat broth for milk, butter, or enriched liquid so diners could enjoy sumptuousness on fast days.
