Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio The Fish Butcher: Fish Eye Ice Cream, Anyone?
Mar 20, 2026
Matt Goulding, co-founder of Roads & Kingdoms, shares a short list of standout, under-the-radar restaurants. Josh Nyland, Sydney chef and author of The Whole Fish Cookbook, talks whole-fish butchery, from fish-eye chips to dry-aging tuna like beef. They explore using every part of the fish, preservation techniques, and surprising plating tricks that catch diners off guard.
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Waste Constraint Fueled Fish Innovation
- Josh turned a waste problem into creativity by banning cooks from throwing away trimmings and experimenting with every part of the fish.
- That constraint led to making sausages, prosciuttos, pasta from bones, and ice cream from eyes.
How Fish Eye Chips Won Customers
- Josh Nyland secretly served fish eye chips to diners without telling them and revealed the ingredient after the meal to provoke conversation and word of mouth.
- He placed the chips on the table as a free amuse-bouche, then told guests it was a fish eye, which generated shock, giggles, and viral buzz for the restaurant.
Do Not Wash Fish During Processing
- Avoid washing fish with fresh water during processing because it converts trimethylamine oxide into ammonia, creating that 'fishy' smell.
- Josh recommends keeping fish dry, asking fishmongers not to wash it, then wiping it at home and drying on a rack overnight for better flavor.