The Testpiece Podcast

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holdsHow is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?What makes a benchmark a benchmark?Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episodeThe thing people don’t realize about climbing contentJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?When to consider surgeryJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefitsThe history and future of rubber technology for shoesJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kitThe look of the Decoy BoardThe pros and cons of every training boardDan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoorsJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):Noah’s biggest lesson from his injuryWhat are the defining characteristics of the British board style?How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplinesWhen to use a standardized board over a spray wallJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): A look into Connor’s approach to trainingWhat makes him so strong on jams and locks?Connor’s bouldering aspirationsConnor and the TB2Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing?More crazy skincare techniques from WillIs Font or Yosemite more technical?SHOW NOTES:Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Drifter's Escape (5.15a Trad): https://www.instagram.com/p/DUqlp18j6vL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Nate Williams on ROTSW: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUMf_aCgdpd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Adam’s favorite crags in the NortheastOther projects Adam’s eyeingWhat motivates you as a climber?Why are there so many strong crimpers in the Northeast?SHOW NOTES:“La Dolce Vita” V13 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DT6XK3Zksaj/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==/Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s?Best ways to do Leaderboards?What separates Quinn from the actual Board Lords?SHOW NOTES:ROQ Climbing Gym: https://www.roqclimbing.com/8B On A Moonboard?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4hR75avQkUWheel Rock “Crimpiest Board”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ggh3uhdTVm8“ursula” V6 TB2 Spray by Alex JohnsonJoin Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE

Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible.She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to sit out the entire World Cup series with a serious knee injury.Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are you gunning for the 2028 Olympics?What is the prime age for being a competition climber?The role of JOY in greatness.Arnold Schwarzenegger!Indoor skin management vs. Outdoor skin management?Join Patreon: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERE