The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall.  What We Talked About The difference between a climbing coach and a climbing trainer When to say "take" on routes How he coaches Alex Puccio How to increase confidence, and why it's important How your body language can influence your climbing performance Lots more Related Links Justen's online climbing services: www.climbingsensei.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Andrew Burr Photography Thanks for listening!

TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes  Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin   Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14. He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible). What we talked about: The importance of strength training Difference between strength and power His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks Whether or not you should train to exhaustion Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not Who should be campusing Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not Things We Mentioned Will's website Tension Climbing (coming soon) Will's article on finger strength training I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com Discount on ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!   Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell. Thanks for listening!  

Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet   We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran into them a lot over that season in the Red and in Chattanooga, where they now live.  What I noticed about Nate is that he's a calm, collected, strong, solid climber. He was obviously dedicated to climbing, having moved to the Red to work at Miguel's so he could pursue it full time. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V11, and he won the 2011 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. And he's a really nice guy. When I asked you all a while back for suggestions for "everyday climbers" (ie not pros) whose training has paid off, several people suggested Nate, so of course I had to interview him to find out how he does it. What We Talked About How he stays strong living on the road How he uses breathing to create power and to relax How he trained back flagging His new interest in lifting and how it's changed his climbing Whether or not he runs and why Diet  Mental training Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fingerboard, designed for the stronger, more massochistic among us. I wanted to talk to this legend about how he's achieved all of this, and he kindly granted me an interview. By the way, there are 2 Ben Moon's in the climbing world: this English Ben Moon and the videographer/climber Ben Moon who lives in the U.S. and recently made a video about Denali the dog. What We Talked About Here's what English Ben Moon and I talked about: His history as a climber Hubble, the first 8c+ ever, and how it got upgraded to 9a Training for and sending 9a at age 49 How he trains in general His thoughts on the Moon board and the Moon Fingerboard Whether he's just genetically gifted or if he has to train hard Training and projecting on a tight schedule How he's doing on Northern Lights, another 9a Related Links Moon Climbing: www.moonclimbing.com Video interview of Ben Moon on his recent 9a ascent of Rainshadow Moon Climbing on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015   (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell   Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him. What we talked about: How he trained for The Game (V15) How he trains for hard routes His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board How he gives back as a coach His thoughts on diet Things We Mentioned Jon's Instagram Jon's Facebook Discount on ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!   Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon! Thanks for listening!  

Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself. His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box. To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com. What We Talked About How he differs from other climbing trainers What MAT is and how it's helped climbers Why fingerboarding isn't the best way to train finger strength And what to do instead Why campusing isn't the best way to gain power And what to do instead Links We Mentioned Adam Macke's website: mackefit.com High Point Climbing: HighPointClimbing.com Anvil Crash Pad Rental in Chattanooga: AnvilCrashPadRentals.com New Awesome resource for Route setters: TickTapeTighten.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Photo of Adam Macke by Corey Wentz at www.coreywentz.com. Thank you, Corey! Thanks for listening!

About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com. As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the line and told you my opinions and advice about nutrition for climbers.  What I Talked About In this episode, I asked for questions from you guys before the episode and answered as many of them as I could before getting sick of hearing my own voice ;) A good carb, protein, fat ratio for climbers Whether intermittent fasting is good for climbers Whether ketosis is good for climbers Why healthy centenarians can eat grains but Paleo says they're bad for us How sugar affects us, and how much we should eat Blood type diet Other stuff Related Links Neely's nutrition website: neelyquinn.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Date: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall. What We Talked About In this conversation, Kevin tells me his own Dawn Wall story, how he fought through the challenges and ultimately succeeded, how he trained for it, and what's next. Which key pieces fell into place to let him send the Dawn Wall The media blow-up about the Dawn Wall How he skipped 14b & c and jumped to sending 14d Why pitch 15 was so hard for him How he dealt with the immense pressure up there Specific training he did for the Dawn Wall Why he switched from highballing to bigwalling Related Links Kevin Jorgeson's website: KevinJorgeson.com Kevin climbing Ambrosia Kevin climbing pitch 15 Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

    Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price.  ==>> Get The Discount   About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships. Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love. She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com. What We Talked About How to recognize and treat finger injuries Self-care for finger, hand, forearm injuries The truth about ice, and why immersion baths are the best How often we should be doing self-care to stay injury-free When to know if you should go to a doctor Links We Mentioned Dr. Lisa Erikson's website: LifeSportChiro.com New book, Climbing Injuries Solved, at ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com Youtube videos at YouTube.com/LifeSportChiro  Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

About Steve Maisch   Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for themselves. He makes very hard moves look easy. Clearly, his training works, and not only for himself. He's had awesome success training other people as a side project of his. What We Talked About How he went from climbing V10 to V13 using a 6-foot wall in his basement What weight training is beneficial for climbers and why How to train for bouldering as opposed to route climbing Circuit training on a bouldering wall The best way to train finger strength Links We Mentioned Steve Maisch's website: SteveMaischTraining.com/ Steve's Training Program This is the training program Steve laid out in the episode for your reference! A big thanks to Steve for putting this together. You'll have to listen to the episode for more details, but this is the basic structure.  Four week block with emphasis on strength:     Four week block with emphasis on strength endurance:   Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!