The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on his athlete page at Patagonia and on his personal site.  What We Talked About What winter alpine climbs entail How he trains for it all Climbing 5.14a Hard alpine ascents in remote areas Training 7 days a week Why it's hard to do it all Related Links Video trailer of Citadel, a film about Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey in Alaska  Matt Helliker's personal site: matthelliker.com Matt Helliker on Instagram Matt Helliker on Twitter Matt Helliker on Facebook

I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it. It's a really interesting topic, partly because everyone is so different that it may or may not work for you. It didn't work for me (for reasons I'll explain in the episode), but it may work for you. And who knows - if I'd done things differently it may have worked for me. In this episode, I explain: What the ketogenic diet is What the macronutrient ratios are How to know if you're actually in ketosis Why people like the ketogenic diet The difference between the ketogenic diet and Paleo/Primal What foods are pretty much no-no's on the diet My experience and mistakes on the diet My goals are to help you understand it a little better and maybe to help you avoid some common mistakes if it's something you're interested in trying. I'd love to know what your personal experience with it has been, and if you have any questions about it just leave them in the comments below! Thanks for listening :)

About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's known for his relentless training, and that's what we talked about in this interview.  What We Talked About Dealing with failure Shoulder dislocation and injury 3-a-day training sessions Training for King of Limbs (V13/14) His exact training schedule How he'd change his training schedule for someone not as strong Related Links Video of David Mason on King of Limbs Article and videos of his trip to Sweden in Rock & Ice David Mason on Instagram David Mason's website and photography Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing. What We Talked About How he prepares for free solos His hardest sends Why he built a gym devoted to training for climbing How olympic lifts and crossfit workouts help climbers How to build fitness The future of training for climbing Related Links Matt Lloyd's gym: www.mountainstrongdenver.com Article on Climbing Mag by Matt about overcoming fear Training Programs for You  

About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio.   What We Talked About Why she did highball boulders and why she doesn't anymore Where her climbing is going Why trad climbing is so satisfying to her How she changed her approach to comp climbing Who trains her Her home training set up What she eats and why Related Links Nina Williams on Instagram Nina Williams on Facebook Trailer for Za, a movie about Nina, Daniel, Nalle, and Dave Graham Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

  About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating.  What We Talked About His climbing career How he's trained for different projects How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad  The mistakes most climbers make in their training Excelling even when the pressure is on How he deals with fear on scary routes His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!) Related Links Dave's blog: www.davemacleod.blogspot.com Dave MacLeod on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  

  About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible.  What We Talked About His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses How he works with clients Training for crack climbing Pinky crack drills Free soloing 3,000 routes Case study of bouldering client Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients Intro to "Jack Daniels"   Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.   --> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels Related Links Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk Tom Randall on Facebook His coaching partner, Ollie Tom Randall on Instagram Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!

Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter.  What We Talked About Van life and being a mom Her training regimen designed by Steve Maisch What's different in her climbing now that she's 40 How she trains now vs before she started competing Her success on a high fat diet Related Links Thomasina's website: www.thomasinapidgeon.blogspot.com Thomasina on Facebook Thomasina on Instagram Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Mike Chapman Thanks for listening!

About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds. What We Talked About What makes a good climbing trainer Confusion about periodization Confusion about finger training Repeaters vs. Eva Lopez training Climbing as training for climbing Listener questions Related Links Steve’s website, Climb Strong at www.climbstrong.com Climb Strong on Facebook: www.facebook.com/climbstrong Steve’s gym in Lander is Elemental Performance and Fitness at http://lmntl.net Steve’s book about strength training on trainingbeta. Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode.  What We Talked About Her bouldering career highlights How her coach as a child taught her so much about training Her weekly schedule for workouts and climbing Exactly what her workouts look like How she makes it work without sponsors How she stays injury-free Lots more Related Links Isabelle on Instagram: @Fausey Isabelle on Island.io Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)   Thanks for listening!