Climbing Business Journal Podcasts

In this week’s episode, Scott Rennak sits down with Marc Norman, CEO of USA Climbing, who has been in this role for eight years and came to it with unique credentials. Previously, Marc spent two decades at the Utah Olympic Legacy Foundation, finishing as VP of Sport and Venues—overseeing three Olympic facilities, 300 employees, and the kind of large-scale operations that come with hosting some of the world's biggest sporting events. He was also a competitive athlete and has a lifelong love of climbing that dates back to a Wisconsin crag in the early ‘90s. During their conversation, Marc and Scott dig into some deep topics within competition climbing today. They cover USA Climbing's ambitious National Training Center project in Salt Lake City—including the partnership with Momentum, the community pushback, and how the facility is being designed to serve athletes. They also explore the youth athlete pipeline, how climbing can capitalize on its LA 2028 Olympic moment (including paraclimbing's debut on the Paralympic program), and what it's going to take for the whole industry to convert that exposure into real foot traffic and long-term growth. General Topics Covered Leadership and Background of Marc Norman National Training Center Project in Salt Lake City Industry Partnerships (USA Climbing × Momentum) Community Response and Pushback Youth Athlete Pipeline Development Olympics and Global Exposure (LA 2028 and paraclimbing) Converting Awareness Into Gym Growth Show Notes USA Climbing USAC National Training Center USAC Strategic Planning Climbing at LA28 Marc Norman on Linkedin Thank you Cascade Specialty, Climbing Wall Association, Rúngne, Rock Gym Pro and Kilter for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Today’s guest is Zuoyi (pronounced: Zoe) Phang, a routesetter based in Durham, North Carolina, and a member of the setting team at Triangle Rock Club. Zuoyi began climbing in 2018 after a friend invited her to a gym birthday party and she quickly “fell down the rabbit hold,” climbing nearly every day while balancing long shifts in the service industry. Not long after, she was recruited into routesetting and has been building her experience ever since, working across multiple Triangle Rock Club locations and setting USA Climbing events across the Southeast. Notably, Zuoyi has also set for Siege the Southeast. Zuoyi is a USA Climbing Level 2 routesetter with plans to step into her first chief roles in the near future. In this episode, Zuoyi and host Holly Chen dive into the human side of routesetting: the emotions that come with creative work, the role ego plays in the craft, and how team members can support each other through the inevitable frictions of collaborative setting. General Topics Covered Why routesetting can be more emotional than people expect Managing frustration, feedback and vulnerability when sharing climbs with the public How ego shows up in routesetting, and the difference between healthy pride and destructive ego Using curiosity and communication to navigate disagreements about grades, movement and style How body types, strengths, and climbing backgrounds shape setters’ perspectives Recognizing when a teammate is struggling and how crews can support each other during a tough day The role of leadership and crew dynamics in diffusing tension on a setting team Balancing innovation and practicality when testing new ideas on the wall What an ideal routesetting team culture can look like, and the importance of staying serious about the craft but lighthearted enough to enjoy the process Show Notes Find Zuoyi Phang on Instagram Triangle Rock Club Siege Climbing An Episode of Affirmations: Battling Imposter Syndrome with Ethan Paris Closing Notes If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here. The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rúngne, Cascade Specialty, Trango, Approach and Onsite. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

In this episode, Scott Rennak interviews Brett Jessen, the Head of Climbing Environments at Bouldering Project. Brett talks about his extensive journey in the climbing industry, from his early days as a climber and routesetter in the ‘90s to his current role in building cutting-edge climbing gyms. He discusses the evolution of climbing gyms, the design and construction process, and the importance of community and culture in climbing. Brett also offers valuable advice for aspiring gym owners and reflects on the future of the climbing industry. General Topics Covered Brett’s path to his current role Collaboration between architects and engineers during the design process Advice for aspiring gym owners on understanding a market and building requirements The significant planning and budgeting that comes with constructing a gym Challenges of working with historical buildings Importance of educating climbers about outdoor ethics Show Notes Bouldering Project CBJ article about St. Paul BP Thank you Rúngne, Approach, Essential, Flashed, and OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Today’s guest is Jeremy Ho, who many  know as JHo, one of the most recognizable names in the U.S. setting community. Jeremy has worked in the climbing industry since 2007, primarily as a routesetter, and has been a National Routesetter with USA Climbing since 2012. He now serves as USAC's National Routesetting Program Manager, helping shape education, pathways, and standards across the country. Previously, Jeremy was Director of Routesetting at Touchstone Climbing and Sportrock Climbing Centers, and he has set events ranging from USAC Team Trials and Open Bouldering Nationals to Bouldering World Cups and North American Cup Series competitions. Jeremy and host Holly Chen dive into leadership, development, and the realities of building a sustainable national routesetting pipeline in this episode. General Topics Covered Leading a national routesetting program and stepping into a national leadership role Clearer USA Climbing pathways and clinic structure Representation, access, and underrepresented setter initiatives New prerequisites and partnerships (PRS clinics) to better prepare setters before entering USA Climbing clinics Youth competition difficulty and long-term athlete retention Bottlenecks and what really moves setters forward in the USAC pipeline Crew selection, team cohesion, and why soft skills matter at high-level events Show Notes Find Jeremy Ho on Instagram  USA Climbing Routesetter Resources  USA Climbing Routesetter Pathway Amy Stone Foundation Closing Notes If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here. The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rúngne, Approach, Essential, Onsite and Flashed. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

Today’s episode is a rare interview with Anne-Worley Moelter, one of the most accomplished and experienced professionals in the climbing industry. Currently she serves as CEO of Movement Climbing Gyms, the largest chain of climbing gyms in the world. But her start in our industry began over 25 years ago in Colorado, when she was a manager at Boulder’s first full climbing gym. She later co-founded the first Movement location with her husband Mike Moelter, after spending half a decade as USA Climbing’s first Executive Director. She’s also currently a Vice President of World Climbing, formerly the International Federation of Sport Climbing. Through her wealth of experience, Anne-Worley has learned a lot about our industry, careers, personal and professional motivations for climbing, and much more. In this episode she sits down with Scott to share her insights, from leadership wisdom to stewardship guidance and beyond. General Topics Covered Anne-Worley’s background Perspectives on climbing industry career development Leadership culture to nurture careers Unionization at Movement How private equity can affect a business Differentiation, competition and saturation Stewardship of outdoor climbing spaces Show Notes Movement Climbing Gyms Movement Instagram CBJ Article with Anne-Worley Moelter Thank you Rúngne, Rock Gym Pro, Kilter, Strati Climbing and Trango for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Today’s guest brings us back full circle to our first-ever episode of the Impact Driver Podcast, as we welcome Sierra McMurry (they/them) back to the show after two years. Sierra has been climbing for over a decade and routesetting for nearly as long, working at commercial gyms and competitions as a contract setter while balancing life as a PhD candidate in wildlife biology at North Carolina State University. Frequently traveling between the East and West, Sierra brings a wide range of setting styles and team experiences into every room they enter. They are a USAC Level 2 routesetter, with a growing focus on competition setting, education, and building safer, more inclusive pathways into the profession. Sierra and Holly dive into all those topics and more on CBJ’s first video podcast episode. General Topics Covered The anatomy of an ideal setting day (hint: good coffee) Why competition boulders belong in commercial gyms From “rose-colored glasses” to clearer instincts: spotting supportive crews, avoiding tokenism and building confidence through community True inclusion versus performative allyship in routesetting Soft skills as the make-or-break factor USA Climbing pathways, changing rules and unintended “walls”: how language, requirements and culture can discourage emerging setters Aesthetics, Instagram and the “before/after” boulder Show Notes Find Sierra McMurry on Instagram and their Ph.D Portfolio The first Impact Driver Podcast episode: Sierra McMurry – Routesetting on Common and Uncommon Ground  Routesetting Tips and Workflow feat. Sierra McMurry Closing Notes If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here. The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rungne, Trango, Rock Gym Pro, Flashed and Onsite. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The USA Climbing competition season is well underway and athletes are showing up to qualification events across the country. On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen invites former USAC Routesetting Director Mike Bockino to chat all about competition setting. Mike is someone who needs no introduction, but we’re going to introduce him anyway. Climbing since 1999 and setting commercially since 2009, Mike estimates that he has set over 150 competitions, including 28 National Championships and 6 World Cups. He bounced between Salt Lake City and Boise in his early setting days before landing at The Front Climbing Club, where he eventually became the Director of Setting. In 2020, he became USA Climbing’s Routesetting Director. Mike left that position in 2025 to join Essential Climbing. He is a USAC Level 5 National Head Routesetter, an IFSC Level 2 Routesetter, and a certified strength coach. When Mike is not setting or climbing, he enjoys making restaurant-grade tomato sauce. General Topics Covered Life of USAC’s Routesetting Director and what comes next The evolution of difficulty in bouldering events The specialization of setters: Why do setters often gravitate toward bouldering competitions? Selective memory of competition setters: If competitions are so taxing, why do we keep doing it? Setting for athletes versus setting for spectators Assessing difficulty based on a setter’s abilities How setters can manage the pressure of perfection and look past it Don’t sleep on the soft skills of routesetting Personal limits within routesetting: Do they exist? Show Notes Find Mike Bockino on Instagram Essential Climbing Welcomes Mike Bockino to the Team Mike’s blog Closing Notes If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here. The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Approach and Butora. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

Today's episode features an interview with Parker Sims, founder of Gravity Bear, a new bouldering gym built inside a century-old, renovated building in downtown Tulsa, Oklahoma. Parker talks with host John Burgman about the process it took to bring this ambitious project to life, from managing construction timelines and subcontractors to refining the gym’s vision around a “minimum-viable-product” approach. Throughout the conversation, Parker shares the challenges of acting as his own project manager, the importance of hiring the right team early, and how the gym’s design evolved to balance financial reality with addressing community needs. He also explains how his military background shaped his leadership style and resilience through the ups and downs of construction. Listeners will hear how Parker drew inspiration from climbing gyms around the world, blending a European-style, café culture with a focus on creating a community gathering space and true “third place” for locals and visitors alike. Tune in to learn how Gravity Bear came together—one deadline, renovation and lesson at a time. General Topics Covered Project Management and Construction Challenges Team Building and Organizational Structure Facility Vision with a Minimum-Viable-Product Focus Building Renovation and Historical Preservation Military Influence on Leadership and Business Philosophy Competitive and Community Insights from Global Climbing Gyms Show Notes @climbgravitybear Thank you Approach and Kilter for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

As the routesetting field continues to become more professionalized, so do our standards and expectations. On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen talks with Colorado-based routesetter Daniel Cornella about the state of routesetting education and the elements of good competition sport routes. Dan first discovered climbing thanks to his high school biology teacher, took a detour to serve in the Marines in California, and eventually found his way back to the Colorado climbing scene. In 2013, he was introduced to routesetting at Life Time Fitness by Matt Lloyd. If you’ve climbed in a Colorado gym in the last decade—from the iconic 90s-era gym Rock’n & Jam’n (now The Spot Thornton) to various Movement locations—chances are you’ve pulled on something set by Dan, who is now the Assistant Director of Routesetting at Movement’s Centennial facility. Dan is also a USAC Level 4 Setter and has set for Youth Nationals, National Cups and Vail Citizens competitions. He has also chiefed half a dozen youth championship events. Outside of climbing, Dan works in high rigging for concerts at major Colorado venues, such as Ball Arena. Above all else, he is a proud husband and father. General Topics Covered A catch-22 of routesetting How gyms can work internally to educate setters through a standardized pipeline Balancing the creative and technical aspects when educating setters Preparing routesetters for their first competition Speed is style The elements of a good skeleton for a rope route Tips and tricks on building pump, from recreational to Olympian-level routes, and why every limb should have a job Systematic forerunning and how to approach skeletons versus near-comp-ready routes Show Notes Find Dan Cornella on Instagram Movement x B-Pump Collaboration Brings Japanese Routesetting and Training to Colorado Rumble in the Rockies Closing Notes If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Essential Climbing and Strati. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

This episode of the Climbing Business Journal podcast is a little historical. There is so much that is often recounted and celebrated related to the heritage and lineage of outdoor climbing, and there is an equally fascinating counterpart to that history with the history of indoor climbing. The wonderful industry that we have now with climbing gyms includes components that are largely unique to the indoor scene. Things like routesetting and artificial holds, coaches, comps…These elements didn't just appear suddenly in gyms; they had to germinate and develop over a long period of time. And that's not news to anyone who is listening to this podcast. It is worth pointing out that, more often than not, there was a person or a small group of people who were at the vanguard of those ideas and various developments. That background leads to today's guest, Mike Pont. Mike was one of the people leading the charge in the earliest days of indoor climbing, and particularly the earliest days of routesetting. He was among the first group of people in the United States who actually thought of themselves as routesetters in the late 1980s and early 1990s, when climbing gyms were few and far between. And Mike Pont, along with a few other people, helped make routesetting a concept and helped put it into practice. Mike was also involved in organizing some of the earliest large-scale climbing competitions in the U.S. and was involved in the climbing portion of the ESPN X Games. He basically had a front row seat for the generational turnover in sport climbing and in the climbing industry that occurred in the 90s. Mike and host John Burgman get into all those instrumental beginnings for our industry on today’s show. General Topics Covered Early Climbing Experiences The Birth of Routesetting Competition Development American League of Forerunners ESPN X Games Competition Routesetting The New Generation of Climbers Coming Full Circle Show Notes @mikepont1 Thank you EP Climbing and Rock Gym Pro for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!