Blamo!

Peter Zottolo, menswear commentator and stylist known for thoughtful takes on tailoring and casual wear. Derek Guy, longtime menswear writer focused on tailoring, watches, and style histories. They debate essentials, dressing your age, and which menswear rules still matter. They riff on slouchy fits, value brands, sneakers for wide feet, vertical layering, and shopping online versus in-person.

Hagop Kourounian, founder of Director Fits and curator of directors' personal style, talks about turning a Substack into a shop and soon a print magazine. Conversation hits film-rooted family influences, the link between director uniforms and authorship, a resurgence of physical media and collecting, and whether subtitles and viewing rituals really matter.

Tim Marvin, a former politics and marketing pro turned Tailor's Keep team member, and Darren Hahn, longtime San Francisco fashion retail GM, chat tailoring tradecraft. They discuss clients bringing AI images to fittings. They explore how real-time ChatGPT checks, house style versus trends, and shop etiquette reshape bespoke and client interactions.

Uncle Paulie James, chef and founder of Uncle Paulie’s Deli known for East Coast sandwiches and cult merch. He recounts launching the deli in LA, building community-focused hospitality, and how his merch went from uniforms to celeb sightings. Conversations touch on streetwear roots, The Bear cameo, Japanese denim love, and balancing family, routine, and growth.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Greg Jackson, founder of Greg Laboratory. Greg’s path runs from growing up in D.C. to Detroit, from BAPE and Dunks to a serious run at Nike, where he learned firsthand what it takes to build product at the highest level. We talk about what he took from Nike (and why he left), launching Greg Laboratory, making things in New York, the art of refinement, and why a pocket might matter more than you think. There’s Jay-Z, bespoke tailoring, Mexico, and the strange tension of making clothes that might be… too nice to wear. https://greglaboratory.com/ * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

They riff on evolving jean fits and denim brands, comparing silhouettes and what pairs with sport coats. They debate Ralph Lauren’s use of Native imagery and reactions to a glasses collection. They contrast dramatic, artisanal pieces with conservative, low-attention wardrobes. They explain wardrobe fundamentals, thrifting versus buying new, and practical ways to introduce tailored items into a denim-first closet.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Ronnie Chiu, founder of Colhay’s.Ronnie and I get into how inheriting his father’s sweater shaped his relationship to clothing — and how that personal history informs everything he does at Colhay’s today.We talk about why knitwear doesn’t last like it used to, the importance of knit density, overwashing, handwashing, and why working with the same Scottish suppliers matters.We also dig into intentional buying, sentimentality, raising kids, and what’s next for the brand — including a new line on the horizon. *Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Ben Stubbington, creative director of Arc’teryx Veilance.We talk about Ben’s journey through fashion and design, building the soul of a modern brand, the role of community in shaping culture, and how platforms like Substack are changing creative dialogue.Ben's Substack - Holding Hands with Strangers*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Jack Carlson, president and creative director of J. Press and founder of Rowing Blazers, stewards a century-old Ivy menswear brand while honoring its roots. He discusses reviving J. Press’s Cambridge presence, balancing heritage with new audiences, preserving American and UK manufacturing, refining core products like shirts and ties, and using storytelling and visuals to keep the brand authentic.

Mark Dunsford, managing director of Harrison's of Edinburgh and steward of historic British cloth houses. He recounts his family’s start in the fabric trade. Conversations cover key acquisitions that shaped their range. They explore how mills, recipes and supplier ties create distinct tweeds and suiting. The thread runs from provincial warehouses to London accounts and catalogue expansion.