The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randallNuggets:3:35 – The cellar 6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?  11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience18:19 – What Tom did to get strong23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel1:16:02 – Gratitude

Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omearaNuggets:3:47 – Breakfast, day-old pastries, and experimenting with diet7:55 – Food diary, sleep, and eating enough 15:42 – Early days in Leavenworth19:32 – How Kyle started climbing, Merrimore Park, and planting the seed of coaching26:46 – ‘Rampage’, first Leavenworth days, and Squamish32:36 – Transitioning into sport climbing, his first 5.13,  37:16 – Kyle’s “Best of the best” list, and grading everything in Index grades42:12 – ‘Crown Jewel’56:01 – Outdoor bouldering vs. indoor bouldering/training, and trying to beat the system1:01:01 – Developing boulders by default and not by design, epics in Yosemite, and window cleaning1:09:33 – Best of the best boulders in Yosemite1:12:29 – Moving to Tahoe, discovering coaching, and Kyle’s path to improvement1:18:43 – What Kyle wishes he had done differently in the past regarding training, and perfecting the art of projecting1:24:01 – Climbing and life goals1:27:14 – Experience over strength1:28:41 – ‘Lex Luthor’, moving to Salt Lake, and coaching at Momentum1:36:45 – Leading by example1:41:17 – Themes among successful kids that Kyle has coached, and the contrast between Nathanial Coleman and Dalton Bunker1:46:25 – Staying above the line, and climbing frequency1:48:22 – Spending more days trying climbs, and how Kyle has integrated training1:52:07 – ‘The All-Around Routine’, and committing to a training cycle for the first time2:11:27 – Patron Question from Nolen: How does Kyle balance his performance in sport climbing vs. bouldering?2:16:54 – The power of the psych, and following your motivation2:20:26 – Patron Question from Lena: Top three footwork drills for kidlets?2:25:50 – Patron Question from Evan: When is Kyle (The Voice) going to record children’s books or guided meditation?2:30:34 – Gratitude

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 44:54.

Eric Hörst, climbing coach and founder of PhysiVantage, discusses training plans for kids, training pinch and sloper strength, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers. He also shares advice for parents getting their kids into climbing and talks about his own training compared to his sons'.

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.Discount code: “NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage productsSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1Nuggets:6:01 – Weatherman11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing15:18 – The best send conditions17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)24:29 – Patron Question from Adriel (the early days at the New River Gorge)27:27 – Favorite first ascents from the New 28:32 – Embracing bolting and sport climbing34:17 – The style of bolting in the 90s, becoming a student of climbing, and Eric’s first training articles38:24 – The training paradigm in the 80s (“climber’s don’t train”)40:56 – Early training experiments, wooden blocks on the rafters, pull-ups for slab climbing, and the revolution of climbing gyms47:42 – The modern “weekend warrior”49:13 – Early intuitive training methodologies, and the “shotgun approach” to training56:17 – Applying the 80/20 rule to training1:00:21 – The mental side of climbing, and not getting too focused on one training implement1:07:53 – Patron Question from Matt (the dos and don’ts of hiring a coach)1:12:33 – A new paradigm in connective tissue training1:16:40 – The different effects of hangboarding vs. campusing on finger tendons1:24:33 – How to combine hangboarding and campus boarding to balance performance and resiliency1:29:53 – Patron Question from Liam (benefits of linear and non-linear programs)1:34:59 – End range strength, and the 3D chess of coaching1:41:42 – Core strength, and limiting belief systems1:47:05 – Deadlifting1:52:43 – Weighted planks1:54:31 – Deadlifting + bouldering with small footholds1:59:16 – Reinventing your training, and sticking with things long enough to see if they work

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 43:03.

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maischNuggets:5:10 – Ballet class6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training 23:38 – Climbing strength26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength28:53 – The bouldering pyramid 31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength sweet spot46:45 – Train your weaknesses and perform in your strengths, and battling Free Willy51:50 – Breakdown of the Hueco training plan, and antagonist training59:46 – Scapular lock-offs1:05:06 – How much we should be climbing, and making sense of different climbing schedules1:11:25 – Climb more days, or higher intensity?1:17:38 – Reconciling Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker1:20:48 – Efficiency and muscle memory1:22:18 – The deload week, and getting stronger when we rest1:26:18 – The key elements of the boulder pyramid 1:29:16 – How to build up the pyramid season after season1:31:43 – How to maintain bouldering power during a sport climbing phase1:34:20 – Whether to maintain endurance during a boulder phase 1:38:26 – Gaining endurance through increasing strength1:40:06 – The plus/minus (+/-) system1:49:10 – Training on the boards, and designing different workouts  2:00:16 – Balancing training and performing2:06:51 – The Remond food bank2:13:14 – Injuries, Steve’s climbing goals, and rebuilding his pyramid2:19:55 – Preventing injuries, a foundation of lifting, and the benefit of building muscle in the right places2:26:10 – Gratitude

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok, daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ron-kaukNuggets:4:17 – Out of the blue, and reflecting on a life of climbing8:19 – Sylvester Stallone, Wolfgang Gulich, and a brief career in Hollywood18:48 – Doubling for Tom Cruise, and working on films in Yosemite20:14 – “We would do anything to make $1000.”23:24 – Ron’s first wilderness trip at age 14, and early rock climbing28:43 – Rattlesnake Ridge32:33 – Climbing ‘The Nutcracker'35:17 – Catching rides to Yosemite, and Dale Bards bakery van38:07 – ‘Outer Limits’ with Bridwell39:28 – Ron’s first summer in Yosemite, and “all I needed to do was get there.”42:55 – A day in the life in Camp 4, and climbing The Nose in a day48:23 – Jimmy Hendrix52:40 – ‘Midnight Lightning’57:41 – Playful training, and 100 fingertip pull-ups1:00:13 – Catching waves, and freeing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar1:07:53 – Carlos Casteneda, ‘Tales of Power’, and ’Separate Reality’ 1:13:47 – The end of the 70s, ‘To Bolt’, and ‘Magic Line’1:18:27 – “I am that waterfall.”1:20:19 – Mother nature, nurture, and becoming better caretakers1:21:47 – Sacred Rok, and the universe as our university1:26:15 – Sponsorship and performing1:29:34 – Ron’s vision for what climbing could be1:35:44 – Taking time in nature, and getting back to the basics 1:39:45 – Barefoot standing1:49:12 – Slowing down1:54:11 – Words from Alan Watts (the climber)2:03:30 – Questions from Alan 2:12:12 – The photograph2:15:56 – “We really are all connected.”2:19:21 – Follow-Up teaser, and show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness, and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45.

Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mcclureNuggets:4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen6:22 – Hitching13:58 – Growing up in the Northeast of England, and the climbing wall Steve built in his garage18:43 – Early climbing, and discovering sport climbing22:36 – Steve’s first E326:42 – Tenacity, and trying hard 29:22 – “It’s all down to motivation.” - Ben Moon34:16 – ‘Rainman’37:28 – Going with the flow vs. pursuing long-term goals  44:08 – ‘Mutation’, and Will Bossi  47:21 – “You make your own luck.”48:19 – Was ‘Mutation’ the first 5.15?49:54 – “You can’t have regrets.”52:32 – My (Steven’s) struggle with personal limits, how hard Steve was climbing at my age, and the good news for aging climbers56:17 – The mental and technical aspects of climbing57:42 – The three parts of climbing ability (technical, mental, and physical)59:46 – Foot-on campusing (aka laddering)1:08:30 – How Steve fits in foot-on campusing around other climbing and training1:12:27 – Question from Branko: How do you approach climbing at your local crag, after you’ve done everything? Do you only get on the hard stuff, or do you repeat any routes to continue building your pyramid?1:15:40 – How Steve approached each new season on Rainman, and adding more thought to his climbing gym sessions1:19:08 – Question from Adriel: One exercise to improve strength?1:22:00 – Question from Adriel: Who would win in an arm-wresting match between Steve and Dave MacLeod?1:23:34 – Question from Will: How does Steve balance training and recovery as he gets older?1:26:23 – Steve’s typical climbing schedule at age 50, and his routine for Rainman1:31:06 – Question from Anderson: Does Steve think his hardest climbing is ahead of him? What about his best?1:33:14 – Steve’s hardest climb (his onsight of ‘Nightmare’)1:34:26 – The best1:35:24 – Steve’s decision to move to Sheffield1:38:10 – Steve’s go-to breakfast1:39:49 – Writing, and Steve’s training diary1:45:26 – Gratitude1:49:29 – Frozen fingers, and Steve’s onsight attempt of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be’1:53:42 – The great equalizer1:56:52 – Steve’s Instagram and website1:58:52 – Pembroke, witnessing an accident, and rethinking risk