The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin the Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolfNuggets:3:17 – Overview of the conversation5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 199817:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb’s mindset around learning and coaching, and some of the issues Robb witnessed with hard-charging Crossfit athletes, and when low-carb and fasting might be inappropriate30:04 – Common symptoms other than leanness that can be tied to our diets36:00 – Biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations from Robb related to diet and lifestyle (protein and sleep) 39:51 – The importance of sleep, and the effects of sleep deprivation42:34 – Robb’s parallel sleep universe44:14 – Practical recommendations for a climber at a burger joint, and Robb’s breakfast club46:46 – Protein powders and supplements vs. whole foods51:05 – Sacred Cow, a case for better meat, and breaking down the carbon and methane life cycle of beef production1:02:33 – Water use for beef and almonds1:06:00 – Putting on your high school debate hat, and reversing desertification with ruminant animals1:09:17 – Forbes article, and how big food and big pharma benefit from a meatless planet (and why that should concern us)1:11:21 – Is the solution still to eat “less” meat? 1:21:09 – Patron Question from Max: Are hotdogs Paleo?1:21:59 – Patreon Question from Yoni: How does Robb challenge his own beliefs and biases? 1:28:05 – LMNT electrolytes  and The Healthy Rebellion1:31:33 – Gratitude

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:47:11.

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelsonNuggets:2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler’s dad11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid14:48 – Tyler’s education16:38 – Starting to climb in college18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy21:06 – Tyler’s path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now25:48 – Root cause28:29 – Tyler’s most common recommendation: more variation32:33 – How BFR (blood flow restriction) was created37:31 – What BFR looks like, what’s happening, and why it works45:41 – How you would use BFR for a shoulder injury, and literal vs. physiological intensity51:36 – How you would use  BRF to rehab a pulley injury54:18 – Why Tyler underpressurized the cuffs the first time he does BFR with an athlete56:33 – Should you try BRF at home?58:43 – A BRF protocol Tyler tried for finger strength training1:02:40 – How you might use BRF for training (big picture)1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR?1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool?1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated1:20:09 – Density hangs1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol1:31:20 – The optimal loading range for tendon pathologies, and why most strength protocols are more similar than they are different1:34:45 – Tendon stiffness, and how unloading can stiffen the system1:38:58 – Speculating about physiological explanations for why Emil’s program worked so well1:40:58 – Don’t get sweaty and tired on the hangboard, and separating hangboard training from our climbing workouts 1:44:58 – Finger anatomy, condiles, bone lengths, customized finger training1:52:33 – Doughnut eating1:53:46 – New tattoo1:55:03 – Guitar riffs1:57:20 – Tyler’s wife

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehlNuggets:2:05 – Karate6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’ 10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move15:53 – Parental support16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’ 25:15 – Joe’s Valley27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird kid’s lunch table30:51 – Developing his image, sponsorship, and performing for an audience32:45 – The competition disguise33:50 – Jason’s theme song35:25 – A chronicle of Jason’s hairstyles42:30 – The Dreaded Wudan Mullet43:30 – A chronicle of Jason’s vans47:35 – Falling in love with Hueco, and climbing in the summer52:30 – Are there any FAs left in Hueco?55:37 – Having kids, and focusing your time1:06:38 – Cargo nets1:17:35 – Social Media, and being a professional climber1:25:44 – Patron Question from Logan: What was the most difficult part of dropping everything to be a pro climber?1:28:01 – Odd jobs1:29:39 – Patron Question from Will: How did the NE influence his climbing? 1:33:16 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you ever go back and repeat dangerous climbs you’ve done before?1:35:53 – Gratitude1:37:40 – Don’t give away the beta1:41:22 – Reminders and stuff I’m excited about 

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vestNuggets:3:24 – The climbing closet4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace11:23 – A mix of emotions12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities 24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos45:06 – The standing splits challenge47:33 – Combining training with play52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al” 59:26 – Allison’s training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers1:03:11 – Campusing 1:05:42 – One-arm hangs1:16:25 – Shoulder strength1:17:41 – Christian Core’s hangboard philosophy1:20:07 – Grip positions1:21:52 – Allison’s hangboard schedule, and many different approaches that work1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more1:27:36 – Topouts1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least? 1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams1:54:09 – Best decisions1:55:10 – Competition self-talk1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors1:58:06 – “More doesn’t always mean better.”1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?2:00:01 – Grateful for community

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27.

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.Become a Patron:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Facebook Group:facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbingPrivate Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/coachingShow Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2Nuggets:00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’? 20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate? 23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable? 31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take? 1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-longNuggets:3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing17:47 – Paisano Overhang30:23 – Hangover38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing47:04 –  Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club49:28 – Jim Bridwell54:23 – The Nose in a day59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.1:04:08 – The cafeteria 1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon1:30:19 – John’s writing practice1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse 1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles1:54:01 – Gratitude

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:34:55.