HODINKEE Podcasts

In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why we bought them, what we like about them, and what we'd change if we could. We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around. 1:30: Financial Times Luxury Live Summit3:00: In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again; Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee6:30: Ben's Watch Spotting at the Universal Geneve Meetup That Tony Definitely Read7:50: Wind Vintage Universal Geneve Film Compax9:40: Hands-On With (That Other) Universal Genve Film Compax10:50: Ben's A Week On The Wrist With The Le Mans Daytona14:50: James' A Week On The Wrist With The Tudor Pelagos 3916:40: Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms21:50: The Unimatic Carbon Limited Editions for Hodinkee23:45: Hodinkee's first capsule collection with Unimatic24:35: The 36mm Unimatic Modello Cinque24:50: The Unimatic x Massena Lab Modello Cinque26:10: Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain27:00: Ben's November 2023 Photo Report from Geneva29:28: In-Depth: Gruebel Forsey Signature 132:15: Only Watch 2024 Auction Results34:00: Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer38:10: Watches in the Wild: Thailand: Episode 138:45: Hodinkee's 10 Favorite Seikos of All Time40:40: James' Review Of The New Seiko "24MAS" Divers42:58: James' A Week On The Wrist With the Seiko SPB14344:30: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue, Monopusher And All47:00: A Collector's Guide To 1970s Cartier Watches

Today on the podcast I'm thrilled to have two legendary collectors and dealers join me, Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg.Of course, Eric is no stranger to Hodinkee, having appeared on the site, Talking Watches, and this podcast. He got his start as a vintage watch dealer, soon founding 10Past10 back in 2005. Most recently, he co-founded the online auction site Loupe This in 2021. He's since become known for his expertise in Rolex, Cartier, and pretty much all things vintage.Eric's Loupe This co-founder is today's other guest, Justin Gruenberg. Justin is a second-generation watch and jewelry dealer from L.A., and since joining the family business he also founded the vintage dealer The Keystone. Justin is widely admired for his wide taste that runs the gamut from vintage to modern, sport to dress, and everything in between.Both of these guys have a keen eye, great taste, and extensive about watches. In today's episode, we discuss the most recent auctions and the market more broadly, what dealers and auctions can do better, and get into the nitty-gritty with vintage Patek, Rolex, and Cartier. We also have a little fun – I get both of the guys to tell me what watch they'd love to snag from the other's collection.Thanks as always for listening, and make sure to hit the show notes to follow along with some of the watches we discuss. 00:01: Loupe This3:00: The Keystone4:40: Acquired LVMH podcast8:00: Seven Things I Learned From The Spring Watch Sales And Trying To Make Sense Of The Up-And-Down 'Market'8:40: Patek 1463 at Antiquorum Geneva that sold for CHF 293,75010:10: Christie's Geneva Watch Auction Postponed Until Tuesday Due To Cyberattack; Potential Bidders Encouraged To Contact Christie's11:20: Hands-On With Formula 1 Legend Michael Schumacher's Watches Ahead Of The Christie's Sale12:10: Unique Patek Philippe Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater Sells For $17.3 Million In Return Of Only Watch15:50: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime For Only Watch 2019 Sells For CHF 31 Million, Becoming The Most Expensive Watch In The World23:30: The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Sells For CHF 9.5 Million At Only Watch 202132:10: AP Chronicles35:20: The "gold albino" Rolex Daytona 6265 that passed at Phillips35:30: A Close Encounter With Just The Third Of Its Kind: Hands-On With The Legendary Albino Daytona41:10: Eric's "PSA" Instagram post about fake Rolex stone dials49:10: Dealers Alessandro "Mr. A" and Peluco on Instagram52:10: Justin's Decagonal Cartier London watch52:50: Eric's Cartier London Tank Cintree56:50: Jay-Z wearing the Rolex "modified" by "Franck Muller", and Franck Muller's Rolex school watch as seen in an old auction catalog1:01: Hermes Acquired podcast

In today's episode, I tapped our style editor Malaika Crawford, client advisor Rich Fordon, and video producer Jonathan McWhorter on for a Q&A. Some of the questions we take on:What other brands should release a Cartier Privé-style collection that taps into its heritage, and which brands should not;Our thoughts on the TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1;Whether brands and stylists have ruined watch spotting at red carpet events like the Met Gala;Finally, Since Rich was on his way to Geneva for the spring auctions, we talk about how to navigate the sometimes scary world of auctions.Before we get to the Q&A, we also touched on our 21st Century Fantasy Draft from a few weeks ago. We announce the winner, and then Rich and Malaika tell us about all the amazing watches from the past 24 years we should've included. 2:40: 21st Century Fantasy Draft5:11: Introducing: Richard Mille RM07-015:20: Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal11:00: The modern Movado Super Sub Sea12:45: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of 'The Collectibles'13:23: Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches14:53: Hands-On: With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph15:03: Ben Clymer on His JLC Tribute to 1931 Reverso15:20: Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph19:26: What This Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée Tells Us About The Future Of Restoration20:35: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph21:25: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel23:10: Only Watch Auction Results 202431:40: Introducing: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith: A '90s Icon Revived (Live Pics)40:20: Watch Spotting At The Met Gala 202441:00: Hollywood Pay-To-Play Has Drained The Fun Out Of The Red Carpet

This week, we're back talking auction action ahead of the upcoming Geneva spring auction season. To do so, we've invited two of our biggest auction lovers – Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer and editor/photographer extraordinaire Mark Kauzlarich – to talk about what they're watching in the upcoming weeks.2:20: Rough Diamonds3:00: Monaco Legend Group Spring 2024 Auction4:00: Rolex 4113 Record, Piaget6:30: Record-setting Datejust9:00: Talking Watches with John Goldberger (with the "cheese knife" Rolex 4113 moment)12:45: Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Sonnerie for Only Watch13:15: The Only Watch Auction Delay and Reschedule to May 202414:45: Only Watch Patek Grandmaster Chime Record15:45: The "Paul Newman" Paul Newman Daytona Record  and Henry Graves Supercomplication.20:20: Introducing Rexhep Rexhepi for Only Watch 2023 and Petermann Bédat and Theo Auffret for Only Watch21:50: In-Depth with Furlan Marri's Secular Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch22:15: Christie's Rare Watches Including the Property of Michael Schumacher; AP Royal Oak Chronograph; F.P. Journe Vagabondage23:45: Michael Schumacher's Daytonas (Gold and Paul Newman);27:00: F.P. Journe Ruthenium Collection Tourbillon; Ruthenium Box28:30: Christie's Black Dial Patek 2526 in Rose Gold32:15: Phillips Patek ref. 257734:10: Phillips 1931 Cartier Tank à Guichets and Cartier "Lozenge"34:45: Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva34:45: Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva35:40: Cartier London Cintrée with Blue Dial and Paris Cintrée at Phillips36:00: Cartier Reverso at Phillips (and other auctions) and the Patek 5975J (also at multiple auction houses)37:40: Patek 2523 at Antiquorum, Christie's Hong Kong, and Phillips38:15: Patek 605 HU Pocket Watch at Antiquorum with CHF 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 estimate39:20: Tony's Pick: Franck Muller at Sotheby's40:45: Ben's Picks: Tiffany Patek ref. 2499 at Sotheby's and Full Set 2499 at Christie's41:20: Mark and Ben's Pick: Steel Lange 1

After Watches & Wonders, we're all a bit exhausted by new watch releases, so we decided it was time to do something fun: Another fantasy watch draft. And this time, we're tightening the parameters to get some more variety on the table. So I called up Danny, James, and Jonathan to build a four-watch collection with me.We're focused on our favorite watches of the 21st century. Any watch available to purchase in 2000 or later is eligible, except for the new releases we saw at Watches & Wonders a couple of weeks ago. Here's the big rule: Once a watch has been picked from a brand, NO other watch from that brand can be picked (i.e., once someone has chosen a Rolex, no one else can choose a Rolex in any category). Honestly, after our last draft when three of us picked Rolex sports watches, I wanted to get more variety on the table, and there has been so much good watchmaking in the last 24 years. The hope was that the draft would be a fun way to remember some of the best watches of the 21st century, so far. We also didn't choose any piece uniques or one-offs. Head to the site here to vote on the winner, and we'll announce the champ in a few weeks. 

It’s our last day at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, so we’re recapping everything we saw. We talk about the best watches we saw all week, the best watches under $10,000, drop some of our spiciest takes, and then all of us – all seven of us – pick one watch we saw that we’d purchase, money no object. Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. To learn more about the Lucid visit: https://lucidmotors.com/ Check out the full story here: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watches-and-wonders-2024-daily-episodes-live-from-geneva

Three days into the show and we’re all a bit slap happy and talking about some of our favorite novelties from Hermès, Cartier, Oris, Chopard, and Parmigiani. We also talk a bit about the general mood of the show, which we’ll discuss more on our final show tomorrow. But first, we talk about: Hermès’ new ladies’ watch and whether it’s actually a ladies’ watch; Oris’ new Aquis and why the lack of any mega releases might actually be the best thing for the Swiss watch industry; and we finish with dress watches from Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier’s update of the Toric collection. Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.

On day two, we talk about all of the watches we went hands on with during appointments with Cartier, TAG Heuer, Grand Seiko, IWC, Lange – and even the world’s new most complicated watch from Vacheron Constantin. Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. To learn more about the Lucid visit: https://lucidmotors.com/ Check out the full story here: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watches-and-wonders-2024-daily-episodes-live-from-geneva

In our first episode from Geneva, Ben, Danny, and Malaika join me to discuss new releases from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Tudor. GMTs headline the novelties from Rolex and Tudor. Rolex has brought its black-and-grey bezel to a steel GMT, while Tudor gave what so many have asked for – a Black Bay 58 GMT. We also talk about what it means that it’s a slower year for Rolex, that Tudor is becoming the Black Bay brand, and the new complicated stuff from Patek. We start it all off by chatting about the Le Mans Daytona in white gold (now discontinued!) and yellow gold (new!). Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. To learn more about the Lucid visit: lucidmotors.com

4:51: Audemars Piguet's New Watches Of 2024: From the Royal Oak To The Code 11.59, The Offshore, And More (Live Pics)5:45: A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Daytona Le Mans Ref. 126529LN5:55: Hands-On: The A. Lange Odysseus Chronograph9:12: Hands-On: The Newest Additions To The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection In Yellow Gold And Two-Tone (On Jubilee Bracelets)18:00: A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 12660018:26: Introducing: Rolex Shatters Water-Resistance Records With Its First Titanium Watch (And We've Got Exclusive Live Pics)21:40: Hands-On: Rolex Made A Wearable Titanium Watch – How Are People Not Freaking Out?23:35: Rolex Quietly Announced A New Day-Date 40 In Everose Gold For The 2024 Academy Awards26:00: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono 'Pink'31:44: Introducing: Two New Tudor Pelagos FXDs For Alinghi Red Bull Racing – And One Of Them Is A Chronograph32:05: Watch Spotting: Formula One Driver Daniel Ricciardo Wearing A Secret Blue Dial Tudor Black Bay Ceramic33:25: Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Burgundy, Now A Master Chronometer37:18: A Week On The Wrist: The TAG Heuer Carrera 'Glassbox' 39mm: It's Time To Care About The Carrera Again42:40: Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 611949:30: Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel