HODINKEE Podcasts

Our guest today is James Lamdin, co-founder of Analog Shift. After careers in outdoor equipment and cars, James started vintage dealer Analog Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James turned his passion for vintage watches into a new resource for collectors and enthusiasts. You might know Analog Shift for its detailed watch descriptions, often with a bit of character, and perhaps you've even been lucky enough to visit its New York City showroom, a standby for local vintage watch lovers. In addition to Analog Shift, James is also the co-founder of the RedBar community.In 2020, Analog Shift was acquired by the retailer Watches of Switzerland. But Analog Shift has kept its character since then. Today, James is VP of vintage and pre-owned with Watches of Switzerland. When he's not talking vintage watches, he's drinking whisky, driving his vintage Porsche, and generally cosplaying as Magnum PI.James Stacey joins Mr. Lamdin and me to talk Doxa (of course), how the watch industry has evolved since Lamdin founded Analog Shift, neo-vintage watches, and his company's acquisition by Watches of Switzerland. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.Show Notes00:01: Analog Shift13:20: Example of Gruen Travel Alarm Clark15:20: U-Boat at the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry16:54: Cartier Envelope Watch21:10: James' Doxa Sub 300 "Black Lung"23:18: The Doxa Sub200T26:00: The New Doxa Army29:04: James' Doxa Sub300 from the Jamaican Defense Forces can be seen in the header image.43:00: Cartier Tank Americaine with diamonds45:30: IWC Chronograph ref. 370646:12: Hands-On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714

Today's guest is gentleman dealer Eric Wind of Wind Vintage. Eric was one of the earliest contributors to Hodinkee, writing his first article about the Universal Geneve Polerouter way back in 2010.Over the years, he published the weekly "Bring A Loupe" column and you probably also recognize him from his multiple Reference Points appearances – Speedmaster, GMT-Master, Explorer, and Submariner – and his two talks for the Horological Society of New York.After his time as a Hodinkee contributor, Eric joined Christie's as a VP and Senior Specialist of Watches. In 2017 he set out on his own with Wind Vintage. Nowadays, you surely recognize his wrist and white cuff, always adorned with a rare or beautiful vintage watch.Eric tells a few stories about putting together those epic Reference Points, then we talk about the current vintage watch market, his modern watch collabs, and a charitable auction coming this December that he's involved in. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio.Show Notes00:01: Wind Vintage and Eric's Instagram3:58: Reference Points: Rolex SubmarinerReference Points: Omega Speedmaster8:45: FHH Monthly Report on Swiss Watch Exports9:00: Half-year financial reports for Swatch Group, Richemont, and LVMH9:25: Watch Charts12:30: Patek 3941J with "doré" dial22:45: Tropical Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer that sold at Christie's in 2017 and Phillips in 202125:49: Example of a Heuer 2447S with "eggshell dial"28:35: Eric's unpolished Rolex Submariner 551029:10: Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 551229:20: Collector's Guide To The Rolex Submariner 551339:05: The Rowing Blazers Seiko 5 Collab39:17: Eric's collaboration with Tracksmith and Merci40:00: Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Harry's Bar Super Sea Wolf40:15: Zodiac x Rowing Blazers "Trading Places" GMT47:30: Brian LaViolette Foundation

Today, we're chatting watches with our guest, watch journalist Blake Buettner. Blake's a veteran of watch media, having first contributed to Hodinkee in 2010. After that, he went on to work with StockX before becoming the Managing Editor of Worn & Wound. Nowawadays, you can find his writing in places like the Robb Report as well as his own project, The Deeptrack. We talk a bit about Blake's background, the early days of Hodinkee, and how he got into watches. But since he's old hat at this, James, Blake, and I mostly just kick back and talk watches – the new Seiko Speedtimer, exciting microbrands, all followed by a listener Q&A. A note that Hodinkee Radio will be adopting a summer schedule through the month of August. We're taking next week off, but we'll be back in your feed again before long. Until then, enjoy my discussion with Blake and James. Show Notes00:15: Blake's The Deep Track1:40: Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller4:11: Worn & Wound's Windup Watch Fair5:45: Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor6:20: Introducing: Oak & Oscar Atwood Chronograph6:50: AnOrdain Model 39:15: Introducing: Furlan Marri Disco Volante10:10: Hands-On: Autodromo Group C11:00: Autodromo Racing Team14:30: Inside The Manufacture: Parmigiani Fleurier16:10: Hands-On with the d.m.h. Jump Hour17:40: 2013 Formula 1 U.S. Grand Prix with Armin Strom26:57: Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar in "Pogue" Colors33:00: Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary33:15: Seiko 5 Heritage Design Limited Editions34:00: Seiko Navigator SPB41137:45: Hands-On: Doxa Sub 200T38:13: Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster With White Lacquer Dial40:38: Week On The Wrist: Patek Aquanaut 5065

Today's episode is coming at you in two parts. In the first part, Jeff Hilliard, our director of Limited Editions, joins Ben and me to chat about limited editions and Hodinkee's recent collaboration with Porsche Design, a take on the original Chronograph 1. Founded by F.A. Porsche in 1972, Porsche Design has made a number of contributions to watches, which we also discuss.After that, James Stacey and Mark Kauzlarich join the show. Since we're already halfway through 2024, we decided to recap the first half of the year: Our favorite releases, overlooked watches, and the watches we've been wearing the most.Thanks for listening, and enjoy the show. Show Notes1:01: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition for Hodinkee3:00: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for Hodinkee3:10: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache for Hodinkee16:30: Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Limited Edition for Hodinkee17:30: Zenith El Primero Limited Edition for Hodinkee17:45: MB&F LM 101 for Hodinkee18:15: IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII for Hodinkee25:15: The Casiotron Makes Its Grand Return 50 Years After Starting A Digital Revolution28:10: The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design32:00: Grand Seiko's New SLGW002 And SLGW003 'White Birch' With A Brand-New Manual Hi-Beat Movement 33:10: A Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster with white lacquer dial35:40: Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT38:30: The Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar – A Modern-Day Chronosport UDT40:50: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra43:24: Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition44:36: A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen'47:00: Singer Divetrack53:45: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono 'Pink'54:50: Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts?

Today: the vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava episode. Introduced in 1932, though it wouldn't be called the "Calatrava" until years later, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is perhaps the most iconic watch ever, laying the blueprint for the modern dress watch. It was also introduced at a pivotal time in the history of Patek Philippe, just after it had been acquired by the Stern family. After the acquisition, the Stern brothers hired Jean Pfister, a technical master who would lead the development of the first serially produced complications that defined so much of Patek's collection during the mid-20th century. But first came the Calatrava ref. 96, Patek's first serially-produced reference. I called up founder Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon to discuss the Patek Calatrava. We start by asking: what even is a "Calatrava," and what isn't? Then, we jump through the history of the line, from the original reference 96 through the golden era of the refs. 570, 565, 2508, and others (depending on your definition of "Calatrava"), through the hobnail ref. 3919 and then the rebirth of the traditional Calatrava in the 1980s and '90s. We also take a look at a few of our favorite overlooked Calatrava references as well as the most expensive ones to ever sell at auction.In the show notes below, I've tried to include a link to each reference we mention to help you follow along with our discussion. Thanks as always for listening – let us know if you liked this model-focused discussion, and if so, what model you'd like to hear us discuss next.  Show Notes3:55: The Calatrava collection on Patek's website5:05: A Visual Guide to Rare Patek Philippe Calatravas5:50: Patek Philippe ref. 3919 (Hodinkee Shop)11:54: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oaks13:18: Steel Patek Calatrava ref. 96 with sector dial at Sotheby's16:36: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million17:22: The Patek Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips17:30: Patek ref. 570 in yellow gold (Hodinkee Shop)18:24: White gold Patek ref. 570 (Hodinkee Shop)21:30: Alfredo Paramico Talking Watches, featuring his three two-tone dial 570s24:35: Patek Philippe ref. 250928:45: The Patek Philippe 2526, And Why It's A Watch To Pay Attention To34:52: Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II With Ruby Indices, Limited To Ten Pieces40:26: Patek 2577 with enamel dial at Phillips42:28: Patek ref. 530 with black dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 1.4 million43:05: Patek ref. 570 with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 3.3 million (most expensive Calatrava sold at auction)47:26: Patek ref. 3796 (Hodinkee Shop)51:10: Patek ref. 3923 for Harrod's 150th anniversary (Mr. Watchley)52:00: Andy Warhol's Patek 2526 with Breguet numerals

Our guest today is editor and writer Jay Fielden. Jay is a media industry vet, having spent time at The New Yorker, Vogue, and Men's Vogue, before becoming editor-in-chief of Town & Country. From there, he took the same position at Esquire from 2016 to 2019. He's also contributed to Hodinkee a few times over the years.We invited Jay on to talk more about his recent excellent piece, "The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch," which appeared in the June 24 issue of The New Yorker.It's the most detailed account yet of the "Lennon 2499" that has remained mostly a mystery for decades. He traces the story, talks to the people, and even found some never-before-published photos of the Patek given by Yoko Ono to Lennon for his 40th birthday, just months before he was murdered.Also joining the conversation is our own Ben Clymer. Thanks for listening, and enjoy this week's conversation with Jay Fielden.Show NotesSince the main topic of this week's episode is Fielden's article in The New Yorker, it's short on show notes. Instead, below are links for further reading on the long, winding story of John Lennon's Patek 2499:The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch, Fielden's story in The New YorkerIn-Depth: Twelve of the Greatest Missing Watches, HodinkeeJohn Lennon's Stolen Watch Found in Geneva, Gotham City, the first publication to break the news that Lennon's 2499 had been the subject of an ongoing lawsuit in GenevaIn-Depth: The Wild, Mostly Complete Story of John Lennon's Lost Patek Philippe 2499, Hodinkee, our coverage of the lawsuit where we fill in the blanks as to where Lennon's 2499 had traveled over the past two decadesThe full Geneva court decision between Yoko Ono and "Mr. A.", Canton of GenevaThe Saga of Yoko Ono, Her Chauffer, and Lost Lennon Treasures, N.Y. Times, covering the 86 other items of Lennon's that Karsan had stolen and which were recovered in the 2017 bankruptcy of Auctionata

My guests this week are Phil Toledano and Mike Nouveau.Phil is no stranger to Hodinkee, having been on Talking Watches and this podcast previously. He's an artist and photographer, bon vivant as well as a collector of all kinds of stuff, including watches. Most recently, he's the co-founder of Toledano & Chan, which just released its first watch, the brutalist B1. He's also a frequent undercard on Mike's social videos.Mike is a vintage dealer and the king of WatchTok – he's got hundreds of thousands of followers across social media who tune into his daily updates on life as a dealer in New York City. He has, in particular, become known for his love and expertise in vintage Cartier, which we certainly talk about.The odd couple are friends and collectors, and they just love watches. We talk about vintage Cartier, Breitling, Patek, and pre-Daytonas, as well as the first release from Toledano's new brand. Along the way, we all get in a few friendly jabs.Show Notes00:01: Mike Nouveau on TikTok and Instagram Phil Toledano on Instagram1:00: Introducing: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan1:21: Phil on Hodinkee Radio in 20202:30: Hands-On: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue – Monopusher Chronograph And All11:05: Phil's rectangular Patek with blue sapphire numerals11:25: Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek11:56: Mike and Phil picking up the Rolex Zerograph15:30: Mike's Patek 96 with Breguet numerals16:44: The steel Patek 96 that sold at Antiquorum in May19:45: Auctions: Sylvester Stallone's Grandmaster Chime Sells For $5.4 Million, Evaluating Vintage Patek Philippe Condition, And More From New York23:52: Talking Watches with Phil Toledano

My guests this week are watchmaker Dr. Rebecca Struthers and Lewis Heath, founder of AnOrdain. The two are friends and collaborators, so it was fun to get them both together for a conversation about watchmaking in the U.K., what they're up to, and what's next. Lewis Heath founded AnOrdain in 2015. Since then, the Scottish brand has become known for its beautifully crafted enamel dials. He founded the company after working as a product designer and deciding he wanted to make something closer to home. Dr. Rebecca Struthers is a watchmaker and co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers along with her husband and fellow watchmaker, Craig. The two began their business as restorers, but after realizing they'd made pretty much every other component for other people's watches, decided to build their own. This was the beginning of Project 248, their effort to build their own in-house movement. Struthers also became the first watchmaker in the United Kingdom to complete a Ph.D program, making her the country's first "watch doctor." Show Notes3:00: Lewis' Dubley & Schaldenbrand watch4:59: Rebecca's HSNY talk on Dutch forgeries8:38: Hands on Time, by Rebecca Struthers (publisher page); read the Hodinkee review here9:16: Value Proposition: The AnOrdain Model 19:50: AnOrdain and Struthers Project 248 enamel dials14:04: Hands-On: AnOrdain Model 1 'Fume'33:45: British Horological Institute58:00: Rebecca's Movado Weems watch

My guest this week is Sylvain Berneron. Sylvain is a designer and the founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands. Before starting Berneron, Sylvain spent five years at Breitling, where he eventually became Chief Product Officer. There, he helped completely revamp and build a product portfolio after the brand’s acquisition. Before Breitling, he was also a watch designer at Richemont, working on projects for its portfolio of brands.He got his start designing motorcycles and cars, most notably for brands like BMW and Ducati.Now, Berneron is leading his own brand, and his first watch, the Mirage, makes a statement. It’s an asymmetrical gold wristwatch that takes its shape from its caliber.More important than his background though, he’s one of the most thoughtful guys around.Sylvain and I talk about his career, what watch design is missing, and about building his brand and developing the Mirage.Show Notes1:11: Berneron's website1:30: One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own21:30: Breitling Sells Controlling Stake To CVC Capital Partners For $870 Million39:00: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra1:01:54: After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own1:02:00: In Conversation With Xhevdet Rexhepi, Independent Watchmaking's Next Big Thing

This week, we discuss a few new releases on our desks from VPC and Anoma which leads to a short discussion of the growing small-brand scene. We also jump into our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02. Finally, we talk about brand exhibits and spend some time chatting about a recent visit to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and what made our jaws drop at the mecca of museums.Show Notes2:50: Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW3:00: Series on Fratello about the development of VPC7:30: Anoma Watch (hands-on review to come)8:20: Amida Digitrend11:40: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan15:05: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master0217:25: AP Chronicles on the original ref. 515925:00: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak29:00: AP Chronicles 20mm Royal Oak from 199737:35: Patek Philippe Museum44:30: Raúl Pagès Turns The Page With His Old-School Régulateur à Détente45:30: Steel Patek Philippe 96 Sector Dial at Sotheby's46:30: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million47:45: Buying, Selling, Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction