New Books in Popular Culture Karima Moyer-Nocchi, "The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese: From Ancient Rome to Modern America" (Columbia UP, 2026)
Mar 20, 2026
Dr. Karima Moyer-Nocchi, a culinary historian and University of Siena professor, traces macaroni and cheese from ancient Rome to modern America. She explores medieval recipes, Renaissance baked pastas, and how mobility, religion, and elites shaped pasta’s meaning. She also traces its transformation through industrialization, processed cheese, and Black cooks’ central yet overlooked role in making it an American staple.
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Mac and Cheese As A Thread Through History
- Macaroni and cheese traces a long cultural journey linking Italy, France, Britain, and the United States across economics, religion, and technology.
- Karima Moyer-Nocchi found the dish repeatedly reflects mobility, meaning, and broader social forces over centuries.
Macaroni Meant Any Pasta Shape
- In the Middle Ages macaroni referred to a broad category of pasta shapes, not a single tube shape.
- Recipes mixed pasta with grated cheese, meat broths, spices, and later butter, showing early adaptability to local ingredients and fasting rules.
Fasting Made Macaroni Adaptable
- Religious fasting shaped macaroni's resilience by encouraging meatless yet sumptuous dishes.
- On fasting days cooks swapped meat broth for milk and butter, preserving richness while complying with Christian rules.
