
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio The Cook Who Tested Everything: Ella Quittner is Obsessed with the Best
Feb 20, 2026
Stella Parks, pastry chef and author, answers tricky baking questions with technical clarity. Mari Orozco, producer and reporter, brings a lively Cake Picnic field report. Ella Quittner, food writer and obsessive recipe tester, shares her methodical trials on biscuits, bacon, poached eggs, cakes, brines, and surprising freezes. Short, lively segments explore baking chemistry, tempering, and competitive recipe testing.
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Cake Picnic: Communal Cake Chaos
- Mari Orozco attended Cake Picnic where hundreds of attendees brought cakes to a communal potluck.
- The event turned into a chaotic five-minute slicing frenzy that felt like a sugary Hunger Games.
When To Use Baking Soda Versus Powder
- Use baking powder for neutral, double-acting lift and baking soda to neutralize acids and boost browning.
- Include soda as a seasoning to promote better color and deepen flavor in things like chocolate chip cookies.
Why Chemical Leaveners Won Home Kitchens
- Yeast was the historic leavener for cakes until chemical leaveners simplified home baking in the 19th century.
- Chemical leaveners remain common because they save time and fit home cooks' needs better than yeast.



