The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance
Feb 23, 2026
Joel Unema, high-performance climber and ClimbStrong coach who has climbed V14 and 5.14b. He discusses unlocking V14-level finger strength, training strategies that powered long roof boulders, and a structured, practical approach to improving power endurance for trip preparation. Short, focused training stories and concrete methods make this a nuts-and-bolts training chat.
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Wall Crawls Are Whole Body Hangboarding
- Joel frames wall crawls as 'hangboarding with your whole body' that blend repeater-style forearm stimulus with full-body tension work.
- The drill trains cross-body tension and coordination, reducing monotony compared to static repeaters.
Train Breathing While Holding Tension
- Train breathing under tension to beat long roof boulders: Steve Bechtel and Joel used MMA-style breathing drills and roof-specific on/off-wall circuits.
- Practice laps on a roof simulator plus off-wall 2-minute circuits that force bracing while you breathe.
Garage Roof Laps Plus Two Minute Circuits
- Joel built a small roof in his garage and did laps back and forth to mimic compression, toe hooking, and sustained opposition.
- He paired that with off-wall 2-minute circuits: L pull-ups, medicine-ball pushups, knees-up hangs, and front squats.