The Training For Mountaineering Podcast TFM7: Simulated Altitude Training For Mountaineers
Jul 12, 2020
A deep dive into simulated altitude training for mountaineers, clearing up common myths and controversies. Short breakdown of different altitude methods and how normobaric systems, tents and chambers work. Reviews scientific evidence on altitude sickness prevention, endurance, power and strength claims. Practical guidelines on using tents, required exposure time, risks and when this training might be worth trying.
AI Snips
Chapters
Transcript
Episode notes
Host Learned The Hard Way Working In An Altitude Gym
- Rowan Smith recounts his early work in a simulated altitude gym where he trusted certification claims that it matched real altitude benefits.
- He later researched and discovered those claims were misleading, prompting a change in how he advises mountaineers.
Normobaric Training Is Not The Same As Real Altitude
- Normobaric simulated altitude (tents, chambers, masks) reduces oxygen percentage but does not lower barometric pressure like real altitude.
- That difference means normobaric methods cannot be assumed to produce the same physiological effects as terrestrial hypobaric altitude.
Only Hypobaric Pre-Acclimatization Reduces Altitude Sickness
- Evidence shows hypobaric simulated altitude can reduce altitude sickness, but those chambers are rarely accessible to mountaineers.
- There is no conclusive evidence that common normobaric tents or chambers prevent altitude sickness on real mountains.