
Plain English with Derek Thompson Plain English BEST OF: What’s the Matter With America’s Food?
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Feb 3, 2026 Julia Belluz, health and nutrition journalist who covers food policy and regulation history, and Kevin Hall, former NIH metabolism researcher who ran randomized trials on ultra-processed diets. They discuss how America’s food environment shapes eating and weight. Conversations cover ultra-processed versus unprocessed trials, food biology and overeating, regulatory loopholes, labeling and upstream policies, and the role of reformulation and tech.
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Poison Squads Sparked Early Food Law
- Early 1900s regulators fought acute food poisoning by testing additives in human trials and helped create the FDA.
- Julia Belluz recounts Wiley's 'poison squad' work and Upton Sinclair's The Jungle as catalysts for reform.
Nutrition Science Is Dramatically Underfunded
- Nutrition research is drastically underfunded; about 1% of NIH projects address diet and nutrition.
- Kevin Hall warns policy will misfire without stronger science identifying what in foods causes harm.
GRAS Loophole Let Additives Flood In
- The 1958 food additives amendment introduced 'generally recognized as safe' (GRAS), later allowing industry self-affirmation.
- Julia Belluz notes ~99% of new additives since 2000 entered via that self-determined GRAS route.







