American Alpine Club Podcast

The AAC has launched a new grant, called the Momentum Grant, to fund intermediate to advanced alpine adventures, with a focus on ice, mixed, rock, and ski-alpinist objectives. The Momentum grant is in partnership with the family of Austin Mallet, in honor of Austin. Austin was a Texas native who developed a deep passion for big mountain objectives, but whose time was cut short by a tragic avalanche in 2024. Austin approached climbing with incredible discipline and sought to grow his skillset and develop his mountain craft at every opportunity. The Momentum Grant will preserve Austin’s spirit by supporting the projects of passionate climbers seeking to elevate their skills in big mountain environments. To get applicants inspired by Austin’s story, and to share about the kinds of projects the grant funds, we had some of Austin’s closest friends on the podcast, to share stories of his adventures and mountain philosophy. In this episode, we hear memories from his partner, Emily McKay, and two of his close climbing friends, Chris Labosky and Aiden Whitelaw. We explore Austin’s never-ending psych for adventure, his dialed planning methods, his generosity, his deep belief in his climbing partners, and much more. Dive in to get inspired by Austin’s legacy, and dream up your application for the Momentum Grant. Applications close April 30, 2026. Learn more about the grant: https://americanalpineclub.org/momentum-grant

In this episode, we sit down with THE dynamic duo Pete Takeda and Jason Antin. Pete and Jason recap and expand upon the climbing accidents featured in the January and February Prescription, the AAC’s monthly dose of accident analysis from our annual book, Accidents in North American Climbing. Then, they answer audience questions that stemmed from their original analysis. We explore questions like what are the pros and cons of stacked rappels—and sidebar into some misunderstandings about simulrapping. We also explore what happens when old stiff cams are put in wet and grimy cracks, and the alternative uses for old gear. If you’ve left a comment on our Prescription videos, or written into the accidents email inbox, we may just have answered your questions! Dive in to hear about these topics and more.

In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali in 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mt. McKinley). In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these legends put together the pieces of history that they all remember a tad bit differently—in real time, 47 years later.

Part of the Climbing Grief Fund’s mission is to expand the conversation around grief, loss, and trauma in the climbing community, and interrogate narratives that can be unhelpful to healing. In this episode, we unpack some of the unique challenges faced by caregivers after a loved one gets into a climbing accident, and explore why it can be helpful for caregivers to get mental health support too, not just those directly impacted by an accident. In section one, we have the CGF Therapeutic Manager, Trevor Davis, on the podcast, to talk about the scope of the Climbing Grief Fund, as well as its ongoing expansion and impact. Trevor chats with Jay Louie, a therapist in the CGF Directory and a CGF committee member, about these topics, and together they frame the conversation about why CGF resources are for caregivers too. In section two, we dive deeper with Jay, as they share some case studies to illustrate the very human experiences of caregiving after climbing accidents. They share these case studies from their professional experience as a therapist and AMGA Guide, described anonymously, with permission from their clients. In section three, we sat down with Andrew Kirchner, an incredible supporter of the Climbing Grief Fund and a survivor of a climbing accident himself. Andrew describes his accident, and how it made him realize that the accident didn’t just happen to him, it had a dramatic impact on his loved ones as well. Andrew also elaborates on what motivated him to make the Edwards-Ginsburg fund, and thereby support the CGF’s work so generously. *** The magic of the Climbing Grief Fund is that its all about climbers supporting climbers in the darkest of times. If you find, as you listen, that you could utilize these resources for yourself, please learn more or apply at americanalpineclub.org/grieffund. If you are inspired to help your fellow climbers, you can donate to the CGF at americanalpineclub.org/donate. Now through March 10, 2026, your donation will be doubled through a matching program with the Edwards-Ginsburg Fund.

Evan Hau is a pro climber, but most Americans still don’t know his name. He’s the first Canadian to climb 5.15a, and swears his success comes from consistently honing his strengths (and mostly ignoring his weaknesses). In this episode, we chat about how he balances pushing his limits with his tutoring business, and the process of climbing his first 15a, Sacrifice. We cover the magic of the Bow Valley—the epic limestone crags near Canmore, Alberta—as well as what happens when Adam Ondra comes to town to try to flash your proj. We discuss trying hard on long trips, and his send of Death of Villains last year, his second 15a. Plus, we chat about aging as a climber, with his 40th birthday just around the corner.

Joanne Urioste is a powerhouse in Red Rocks climbing history, and we had her on the podcast to share stories from her recently published memoir, “Collages of Rock & Desire.” Her book is a detailed catalogue of the climbing legacy she shares with her husband Jorge Urioste (she also calls him George sometimes, and does so throughout the episode), including the creation of iconic multi pitch climbs like Epinephrine, Levitation 29, A Dream of Wild Turkeys, and many others. The book is also a detailed account of gear innovations and changing climbing ethics through the ‘70s and 80’s—from swami belts and belay plates, to early adoption of nuts and frontpointing on ice, and adding a run-out bolt here and there to connect discontinuous cracks and make many climbs possible on Red Rocks soaring faces. In the interview, we dive into all of this, plus Joanne and Jorge’s wild love story, managing fear on lead, and climbing as a metaphor for life. You can find a copy of Joanne Urioste's book on Amazon.

In the 90s, Dave Hume was one of the Red River Gorge's original kid crushers. After climbing became a family hobby Dave Hume got obsessed—and left his own mark on the sport. In this episode, we talk about what it was like being one of the original Lode Bros, bringing 5.14 to the Red with his ascent of Thanatopsis in 1996, and the one time he beat Chris Sharma in a competition. He shares the story of how his dad and brother bolted the infamous Breakfast Burrito, one of the Red’s most classic 5.10s, and the sense of discovery of finding new crags like Drive By and Bob Marley. Plus, we cover the early evolution of the Red from trad to sport climbing, reminisce about Miguel’s before they sold pizza, and how Dave repeated Just Do It, the U.S.’s first 14c, in an insulting few tries. Dive in to hear some fun stories from this Red River Gorge local hero. *** If you believe conversations like this matter, a donation to the AAC helps us continue sharing stories, insights, and education for the entire climbing community. Donate today at americanalpineclub.org/donate

Russ Clune is a climbing lifer. He came up climbing at the Gunks, traveled around the world to climb with friends and legends like Wolfgang Gullich, and would help establish the iconic Gunks 5.13 Vandals, alongside Jeff Gruenberg, Lynn Hill, and Hugh Herr. He also shares about sending Mantronix, his hardest climb ever, “back when 5.14 was hard.” These days, he’s a keeper of stories from the Gunks and across the world, and has a running record of Gunks climbing history in his head. On this episode, we meander through stories from Russ’s many climbing travels, explore Gunks toproping ethics and the often forgotten tactic of yo-yo climbing, and set the record straight on some of the most iconic cutting edge Gunks ascents from the 70s and 80s. **** If you believe conversations like this matter, a donation to the AAC helps us continue sharing stories, insights, and education for the entire climbing community. Donate today at americanalpineclub.org/donate

You’re in the thick of it. An accident just happened while you were out climbing, and now you have to decide: do I self-rescue, or do I call for outside help? In this episode of the podcast, we dive into that moment of decision, and provide a series of questions that you can use as a matrix to help you decide what to do next. Our guests, Accidents Editor Pete Takeda, and IFMGA/AMGA Guide and Search and Rescue volunteer, Jason Antin, weigh in. Pete reflects on accident reports from ANAC where individuals have self-rescued, called SAR, or had to do a little of both. We break down a few of these case studies to explore what circumstances caused the accident victims to make the decisions they did to initiate rescue. Then, Jason shares what happens behind the scenes when you call Search and Rescue for help, and how self-rescue techniques can supplement a SAR team’s mission and help SAR get to an injured party faster. Dive in to help prepare yourself, in case you ever find yourself in that moment of decision on how to respond to an accident. *** If you believe conversations like this matter, a donation to the AAC helps us continue sharing stories, insights, and education for the entire climbing community. Donate today at americanalpineclub.org/donate

Owen Clarke, an adventure writer known for his contributions to Summit Journal and Climbing.com, dives deep into the controversial world of rage bait in climbing media. He defines rage bait as content created to provoke strong reactions and discusses its origins in action sports. The case of Lincoln Knowles highlights how shock-value tactics drive engagement. Owen emphasizes the importance of intentional online engagement and encourages listeners to resist becoming numb to such provocative content. A must-listen for those interested in the dynamics of outdoor culture!