The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Aug 15, 2018 • 54min
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
Aug 9, 2018 • 1h 10min
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
Aug 1, 2018 • 1h 16min
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
Jul 25, 2018 • 1h 10min
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
Jun 27, 2018 • 1h 20min
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.
Jun 20, 2018 • 1h 12min
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
May 30, 2018 • 52min
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
May 2, 2018 • 1h 9min
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.
Apr 25, 2018 • 56min
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective.
Apr 18, 2018 • 1h 10min
