The Materialist : A Podcast from At Present

At Present
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Dec 3, 2024 • 44min

The Materialist : Presley Oldham

In this episode of The Materialist, Marc interviews Presley Oldham, a jewelry designer whose path to creating unique, handcrafted pieces was shaped by his creative upbringing and personal exploration.Presley shares his journey, starting with a childhood in an artistic family—his uncle a fashion designer, his father a metalsmith, and his grandmother a fine artist—and his early pursuits in performing arts. These experiences, along with the introspection brought on by the pandemic, led him to focus on jewelry, a tangible art form that resonates deeply with him.Presley discusses launching his jewelry business in 2020, emphasizing the importance of using upcycled and natural materials, particularly pearls, which he views as unique and elemental. His designs highlight individuality and imperfection, blending traditional techniques like wire wrapping with modern creativity. His pieces, which gained immediate traction, are intentionally genderless and aim to evoke emotion and connection in the wearer.Throughout the conversation, Presley reflects on the challenges of building a small, sustainable business while maintaining creative integrity. He describes his inspirations, from nature and vintage archives to classic films and the personal histories embedded in heirloom jewelry. He also shares the transformative experience of participating in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition, where he expanded his creative storytelling to include clothing and fashion shows.Marc and Presley explore themes of artistry, craftsmanship, and the evolving relationship between the maker, the object, and its wearer. Presley highlighted three designers he admires, each bringing something special to the world of jewelry:* Ted Muehling: Presley loves how Ted’s work is all about simplicity and understated beauty. There’s an elegance to his designs that Presley finds incredibly inspiring—it’s jewelry that doesn’t need to shout to make an impression.* David Rees and Ron Anderson of Ten Thousand Things: Presley couldn’t say enough good things about this duo. They hand-carve gemstones into stunning, thoughtful pieces, and their commitment to handmade craftsmanship is something Presley really connects with. He even mentioned they’ve become friends, and he thinks their work deserves way more attention—it’s truly exceptional.* Monica Castiglione: An Italian designer whose pieces Presley grew up seeing, thanks to his mom, who’s a big fan. He describes her work as natural and organic, the kind of jewelry that feels timeless—something you’d want to keep and pass down. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Nov 27, 2024 • 34min

The Materialist : Annika Inez

In this episode of The Materialist, I sit down with the remarkable Annika Inez, a jewelry designer who blends Scandinavian minimalism with evocative, sculptural design. Anika takes us through her creative journey—from her early days in Sweden, surrounded by her entrepreneurial family, to her serendipitous start in a tiny Upper East Side storefront. Along the way, she shares her philosophy of letting materials "speak," her passion for creating timeless yet surprising pieces, and her love for hidden details that evoke emotion and delight.But this episode isn’t just about Annika—it’s also about the artists and inspirations that shape her creative world. She highlights:* Gret Palucca, the dancer and photographer whose revolutionary 1920s work captured movement like never before.* Sabina Sciubba of the Brazilian Girls, whose artistry and music Annika describes as nothing short of brilliant.* Gabriels, a California-based band with a sound so compelling that Annika believes they’re destined for greatness.* Fane, a Parisian brand redefining style with striking pieces that Annika deeply admires.Annika’s story is one of intentionality, whimsy, and a steadfast commitment to beauty. Whether you’re a jewelry lover, design enthusiast, or simply curious about the creative process, this episode offers a thoughtful exploration of how the objects we create and collect enrich our lives. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Nov 22, 2024 • 46min

The Materialist : Jalil Johnson

What happens when bold choices meet impeccable taste? In this episode of The Materialist, I chat with Jalil Johnson, At Present’s Stylist in Residence and a true style trailblazer. From the creation of our Bold Collection to his love for jewelry history and a little “bad taste,” Jalil shares his unique approach to self-expression and storytelling through design. Join us for a fun, inspiring conversation about fashion, risk-taking, and the joy of objects that matter.A few of Jalil’s Favorite Things:Jalil Johnson : At Present BOLD Ring (The Jalil-tastic gold one)EliorRenato Cipullo”Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and and the Styling of Black Disaporic Identity” by Monica L. MillerParis is BurningHanni RazorJalil’s Gift Guide, Part IBernard JamesNew York Public Library This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Oct 30, 2024 • 52min

The Materialist : Pamela Love

On a beautiful October afternoon, Marc paid a visit to Pamela Love’s Santa Monica, CA home to chat design, filmmaking, company building, and the joy of 2 year olds. Amidst Halloween decorations (including Frankenstein’s monster in the front yard as seen above), balloons, and lollipops, Pamela shared how her mother’s begging led to her first job in jewelry, what it’s like to see random people wearing your pieces on the subway, and how gratified she is to be having fun again at work.Above: Pamela’s talismanic eye. She made this for herself as a reminder to keep her eyes open and attuned to what really matters.The eye alongside the woven pinky ring from her mother.The woven bracelet (available on layaway!).Among the many great makers Pamela referenced:FoundRaeMarla AaronHemmerleAna KhouriFernando GeorgeJARDavid WebbSusan BelperronFrancesco Clemente Studio Sam KlemickLucie Rie This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Oct 16, 2024 • 37min

The Materialist Meets Jacqui Getz

Fashion is fleeting, style is forever.Jacqui Getz retired after 35 years as a teacher and principal in the New York City Public Schools only to launch a new career as an Instagram influencer (@thedetailsofstyle), personal stylist, and passionate advocate for aging stylishly.We discuss sustainable fashion, why style matters, how what you wear should change as you get older, and why the most joy as an educator comes from confronting the confusion of the middle school years.In the episode she mentions loving sustainable fashion brands:Naomi NomiChristine AlcalayMinimalist NYC This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Oct 3, 2024 • 45min

The Materialist Meets Leya Kaufman

At Present Founder + CEO Marc Bridge (“The Materialist”) talked with style editor, jewelry aficionado, and content guru Leya Kaufman about her personal journey, the most meaningful things in her life, and the future of style media. This conversation was recorded during New York Fashion Week on 47th Street in the Diamond District, NYC.During each episode of The Materialist, our guests share some of their favorite designers, artists, and pieces. Herewith, please find some of the most interesting references from our episode with Leya Kaufman.Leya Kaufman (@kaufmom) with Marc Bridge (@marcbridge).Stuart Weitzman 5050 Soho BootsGiorgio Armani (Leya circa a few years ago in all black…with a twist)Dannijo JewelryJimmy Choo shoes with built in anklets (definitely worthy of a few more wears)Leya’s ring with her husband’s grandmother’s diamondWhite Chanel bag from Leya’s momVictorian era lockChristina Caruso Italian Links (worn as a bracelet)Danielle Gerber RingArielle Ratner Snake Serpent RingRuth NYHotels Above ParThe Exchange Project3 People You Should Know* Encirkled - Kate Freeman* Sharon Brand* Natalie Jacobson This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com
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Sep 17, 2024 • 55min

The Materialist meets Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato

Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato are the Founders of Lizzie Fortunato, one of our favorite fashion jewelry brands. These twin-sisters began creating unique jewelry in their dorm room at Duke University and the brand began officially in 2008 when Kathryn, then working as a banker at Goldman Sachs, gave sister Lizzie her $10,000 annual bonus check to launch the business.Over the last 16 years, they’ve grown from a small office on the Lower East Side into a national jewelry brand whose seasonal launches are anticipated by jewelry lovers everywhere. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

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