The Materialist : A Podcast from At Present

On Instagram, it looks effortless: the infinity pools in the Maldives, the safari sunsets in South Africa, the couture fit checks against a perfect backdrop. Laura and Nicolas Herbert — known to their hundreds of thousands of followers as @laurandnicolas — seem to embody the ultimate lifestyle: global travel, editorial style, and a business powered by beauty.But as Laura reveals in this week’s episode of The Materialist, the dream is much more complicated.From Antwerp to EverywhereLaura began her career in Antwerp’s fashion world. But a six-month trip with Nicolas — meant as a sabbatical — changed everything. They started an Instagram account to document their travels, posted every single day (sometimes setting alarms for 2 a.m. to catch the right window), and slowly transformed a personal experiment into a professional platform. Hotels began reaching out. Fashion brands followed. And eventually, the couple built a dual business: influencer distribution and commercial photography for luxury clients.The Cost of BeautyWhat looks like vacation is actually work. For every perfect sunrise photo, there’s a wake-up call at dawn. For every dreamy campaign, there are countless emails, logistics puzzles, and the stress of feeding an algorithm that rewards relentless output. Laura admits to burnout, to losing the ability to see some destinations as “vacations,” and to the ongoing negotiation of how much intimacy to share with an audience that feels they know you.“It’s our job to make it look like a vacation — but it rarely is.”Style, Mystery, and the Magazine MagicLaura also reflects on how Instagram has changed. Once it was about editorial photography, thoughtful composition, and images that felt like magazine spreads. Now, the push is toward photo dumps, immediacy, and intimacy. Laura misses the mystery and magic of the editorial era — and wonders if there’s a way back. Her own style, she says, is classic but playful: she dresses to the destination, and she believes accessories and jewelry turn an outfit into a statement.The Places That Still Take Her Breath AwayDespite the grind, there is still wonder. For Laura and Nicolas, South Africa remains the most magical place they’ve ever been — from the conservation-driven safaris at Royal Malewane and Tswalu to the light and food of Cape Town. Namibia, just an hour away, is another favorite, with landscapes that feel cinematic. These are the places where the dream and the reality align.Listen NowThis conversation is about more than travel and style — it’s about the costs and rewards of turning passion into profession. Laura Herbert shares what it really takes to live the life that looks like a dream.Laura Herbert and Marc Bridge, The Hotel Chelsea, August 26, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I’m joined by Tiffany Lopinsky — co-founder and president of ShopMy, the platform quietly powering your favorite creators.We cover a lot of ground: the evolution of influencer marketing, why affiliate and subscription revenue might just save the creator economy, and what it takes to build something useful, without a playbook.Tiffany speaks with the clarity of someone who’s seen behind the curtain — first as a content creator herself (shout out to Boston Foodies), and now as the operator behind a platform with 175,000 creators and 30,000 brands.“There’s no playbook for something that hasn’t been done before. Otherwise, you’d have to write the playbook once you do it.”That could be the ShopMy manifesto — and it wouldn’t be a bad one for the rest of us, either.📌 Highlights from Our Conversation• The 3 ways creators make money todayFlat-fee partnerships, affiliate revenue, and subscriptions. (Spoiler: Tiffany thinks the second and third are where freedom — and taste — live.)• Why micro-influence isn’t just a buzzwordThe power isn’t always in scale — it's in specificity. Smart brands know that the right creator with 10k followers can outperform a scripted macro-influencer with a million.• The changing role of press & retailLegacy media and department stores are losing ground. Creators now function like boutique editors and independent shopkeepers — and they’re often better at it.• The invisible architecture of tasteShopMy isn’t just helping brands find creators — it’s helping good taste scale.🛍 Brands Tiffany Loves (and Why)Here are a few brands Tiffany mentions in the episode — all discoverable (and shoppable) through ShopMy:* Le Monde Beryl — Elegant flats rooted in timeless design.* Emme Parsons — Sandals and refined footwear with a minimalist soul.* Porta NYC — Brooklyn-based earthenware shop she can’t stop talking about. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Victoria Gomelsky and Marc Bridge Live from the Fabulous Venetian Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas.Welcome back to The Materialist. I recorded this special episode live from the jewelry shows in Las Vegas—the annual gathering point for the industry’s global village. Fittingly, I sat down with Victoria Gomelsky, Editor-in-Chief of JCK Magazine, contributor to The New York Times, and one of the most thoughtful chroniclers of the jewelry world for over two decades.Victoria and I talked about what keeps her coming back to JCK after 23 years, why jewelry is still a face-to-face business in a screen-filled world, and how she ended up with a watch named after her—literally, The Gomelsky.Some highlights:"This business runs on trust—millennia ago, you only traded gems with people you knew. That legacy still shapes the industry today.""Of all industries, jewelry is the most intimate—and the most global. You walk one aisle and you’ve met people from China, India, Botswana, Sri Lanka… it’s like the U.N. in diamonds.""Shinola’s CEO said, ‘We can’t come up with a name for this watch—what’s your name?’ I said Gomelsky. And that’s how I got a watch line named after me.""Trade press may not be glamorous, but it's where you learn the real business—the players, the politics, the paradoxes."We also get into:* The evolution of women buying jewelry for themselves* Why trade shows still matter in the age of Instagram* How the jewelry press balances journalism with brand hospitality* Her accidental path from Soviet émigré to New York Times travel writer to gemstone editorVictoria’s storytelling reminds to stay open to serendipity as the best experiences—and the best careers—are rarely planned. You can read her latest New York Times stories here and find her on Instagram at @vikavickyvictoria. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What do you get when a journalism grad, Dallas native, and self-described jewelry “nepo baby” builds a piercing empire in the middle of a pandemic? You get Wildlike—a brand that’s as much about identity, memory, and reinvention as it is about sparkle.This week on The Materialist, I sit down with my friend Alysa Teichman—co-owner of Ylang 23 and founder of Wildlike—to talk about the deeply personal reasons people get pierced (divorce, fertility, “hot girl summer”), the role jewelry plays in our emotional lives, and what it means to grow up inside a family business and then start your own. Alysa is witty, warm, candid, and sharp.We talk:* 🧠 Why piercings are more than aesthetic—they're ritual, rebellion, release* ✨ What it means to treat retail as a form of public service* 🛠️ The real work of “making it happen” when you're spinning 18 plates (and wearing 18 earrings)* 💎 Natural vs lab diamonds: is a lab diamond like a fake Birkin?* 📈 Rising gold prices, TikTok brains, and why “perfection is the enemy of good”* 💬 Scott Galloway quotes, “hey guys” videos, and the elusive balance between authenticity and content fatigueAnd yes, we also talk about her dog. And her favorite piercing (hint: SEO gold).📍Find Alysa at alysa teichman or IRL at her Wildlike stores in NYC and Dallas, and her family’s store, Ylang 23. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I sit down with milliner and creative force Gigi Burris, founder of Gigi Burris Millinery and the nonprofit Closely Crafted, which champions artisanal production in the U.S.We talk about how Gigi went from sewing hats as a Parsons student to dressing Rihanna and being a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist—while keeping her studio (and her soft-coated Wheaten Terrier shipping manager, Brooklyn Bow) right in the heart of Chinatown. She shares what it means to build a niche brand in an age of sameness, the surprisingly diverse world of hat-wearers, and why confidence is the accessory that really matters.Highlights from our conversation:* ✂️ The difference between a milliner and a millionaire (and why she hopes to be both one day)* 👒 How Rihanna ended up in a senior thesis hat from Parsons* 🧵 The Vogue Fashion Fund bootcamp that shaped her business* 🇯🇵 Why Japanese department stores get everything first* 🎯 Closely Crafted’s mission to revive U.S.-based artisan production* 💡 “If you're going to be intentional about the way you dress, why would you not do so from head to toe?”* 👛 Shout-outs to fellow makers: Eve Fehren, Lizzie Fortunato, Don’t Let Disco, and Underwater Weaving Studio.Gigi Burris O’Hara at her studio and store in Chinatown, NYCMarc Bridge wearing a Gigi Burris Hat Pin as a Lapel Pin, NYC This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Marc Bridge and Sophie Cohen (@stylewithsoco), The Hotel Chelsea, May 21, 2025In today’s episode of The Materialist, I had the pleasure of speaking with Sophie Cohen, a fashion influencer whose authenticity and vibrant style have garnered a dedicated following across social media. Sophie’s journey from high school style page to full-time influencer is both inspiring and eye-opening, offering a unique behind-the-scenes look into the evolving business of influencer marketing. Here's a recap of some of the best parts of our conversation.The Power of Authenticity in FashionSophie has always believed that fashion is more than just clothes—it’s a powerful way to express who we are. “Fashion was really the thing that was like, this is how I express myself with the world and this is like my thing.” For Sophie, style isn’t just about keeping up with trends; it’s about wearing what feels authentic and reflects her personality.Her bold, maximalist approach—featuring vibrant colors, patterns, and a love for statement pieces—has set her apart in a crowded influencer space. “I love that with jewelry, even when I'm wearing a simpler outfit, or even if I'm just not feeling like getting dressed, I have all of these little things on me. I love having my name on things, I love that it sparks conversation.”The Business of Being an InfluencerBeyond personal style, Sophie shared her journey of building a career as an influencer. “The biggest channel of income for me is brand partnership. So that is like any sort of paid content on an influencer’s page. If a brand is paying them to post a story or a TikTok or a reel, whatever.”Sophie also emphasized the importance of authenticity in these partnerships. She never promotes brands that don’t align with her values or personal aesthetic. “I couldn’t do a deal for something that felt inauthentic,” Sophie explains. This commitment to staying true to her personal brand has allowed her to build genuine relationships with both her followers and the brands she works with.Sophie’s Favorite Brands and CollaborationsSophie’s style is influenced by a mix of high-end brands, vintage finds, and unique pieces from smaller designers. Here are some of the brands and designers she loves:* Jenny Bird: Sophie raves about their timeless yet funky jewelry pieces, particularly the gold bangles she’s worn daily. “They make really classic yet funky pieces that are also timeless.”* Timeless Pearly: Sophie recently collaborated with this whimsical Parisian brand known for their colorful, fun designs. “They just have the most whimsical, joyful pieces. If you’re ever in Paris, you have to go to their showroom."* Nina Runsorf: Sophie loves this designer’s unique approach to classic jewelry, like a ring with pink tourmaline that she treasures. “I love anything that’s like classic with a twist when it comes to jewelry.”* Vintage Jewelry: Sophie also shares her love for collecting vintage jewelry during her travels. “I love getting a piece of jewelry from any city that I go to... even if it’s just like something off the street, like a $10 bracelet.”The Future of Sophie’s CareerLooking ahead, Sophie is excited about the possibilities within the influencer space and beyond. She’s already worked on some amazing collaborations, and she sees herself growing into the luxury space in the coming years. Sophie also shared her dream of owning a vintage shop, which aligns perfectly with her passion for curating unique, one-of-a-kind pieces.“I think my biggest passion is vintage designer clothing... I would love to have my own brand or shop or something of that sort,” she says. As Sophie continues to build her platform, she’s focused on creating a community where her followers can engage with her and feel inspired by her style.Where to Find SophieYou can keep up with Sophie on her various social platforms:* Instagram* TikTok* SubstackSophie also has a special Instagram show called Meet You in Five with her best friend, where they share more personal content and style advice.TakeawaysSophie Cohen’s approach to fashion and social media is refreshing, grounded in authenticity, and centered around self-expression. By staying true to her roots and embracing opportunities that align with her personal style, Sophie has built a career that continues to inspire both her followers and the brands she collaborates with. Whether she’s showcasing a vintage find or curating the perfect stack of jewelry, Sophie reminds us that style is a form of storytelling—a way to share our identity with the world. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What does it mean to make something lasting in a world built for speed? In this episode of The Materialist, I sit down with Sam Broekema, Editor in Chief of Only Natural Diamonds, to talk about permanence, disruption, and the enduring power of jewelry.Sam shares his journey from a small town in Wisconsin to the fashion departments of Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, and InStyle, where he honed his editorial vision. Now, at Only Natural Diamonds, he’s building a platform that champions storytelling over sales — and elevates diamonds not just as luxury goods, but as cultural artifacts rich with meaning.We talk about:* Why the best jewelry stories aren’t about price, but about people.* How legacy publications lost their footing — and what Sam is building instead.* The difference between a Chanel bag and a bracelet from your grandmother.* How Dezso by Sara Beltrán, 10,000 Things, and Nikos Koulis are redefining contemporary fine jewelry.* The joy of imperfection — from salt-and-pepper diamonds to poky stones with soul.We also discuss why print still matters, how Gen Z’s obsession with authenticity is reshaping luxury, and why responsibility and sustainability aren’t in opposition to indulgence — they’re part of it.Sam’s editorial ethos? Surprise. Delight. Tell the story no one else is telling.📸 Follow Only Natural Diamonds on Instagram🛍️ Discover emerging designers we love at atpresent.com This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Cassie Thorpe doesn’t just talk about luxury fashion—she makes you feel why it matters. In our latest episode of The Materialist, the undisputed queen of Tiny Bag Energy joins me to unpack the emotional logic behind the circus of style. Cassie is incisive, hilarious, and uncommonly generous about the things that spark obsession: Alexander McQueen blazers, vintage Chanel rings, and bags shaped like plastic pigeons (cheers to you JW Anderson).We talk about what it means to curate a personal archive—and why her “love hand” (yes, that’s a thing) features not only her engagement ring, but also the Chanel Ultra ring her parents gave her at 18. That piece of white ceramic launched an entire aesthetic.She also highlights three standout creators and brands everyone should know:* Tolu Coker – London-based designer merging British tailoring and Nigerian heritage with vibrant storytelling. Her work, especially in light of this year’s Met Gala theme, is unmissable.* Nawbar – A Lebanese jewelry house creating bold, enamel-forward designs like their stunning Atom Collection.* Jeniece Blanchet – An ethereal designer whose sculptural beadwork looks like water droplets suspended in air. Think wearable fantasy.Cassie also shares her favorite personal pieces from designers she loves, including:* Susana Martins – for her signature white ceramic and gold pieces* Unsaid – French jewelry house working exclusively with lab-grown diamonds* Shay Jewelry – her own collab with them includes a lavender ceramic and diamond curb-link bracelet* Monica Vinader – for everyday stackable ringsAnd yes, she found the McQueen piece of her dreams—a 2009 houndstooth blazer—on eBay.Cassie’s worldview is that luxury should delight, not intimidate. Whether you’re deep in the Hermès trenches or just starting to figure out your ring stack, this is a conversation for anyone who finds joy in the details. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Every so often, a guest joins The Materialist who manages to collapse categories: intellect and indulgence, strategy and sparkle, Prada and Gramsci. This week, that guest is Tariro Makoni.Tariro is a strategist, writer, and the voice behind Trademarked, one of the smartest (and funniest) Substacks on the internet. She writes about fashion, politics, and consumer behavior with such clarity and candor that you’ll never look at a sweater—or a tariff—the same way again.In our conversation, we dig into:* The emotional logic of “frivolous” purchases* Why women drive 85% of consumer spending (and what that means for power)* The return of smoking as a sign of late-capitalist burnout* And why what’s happening on the Prada runway is an economic indicator—even if your professor doesn’t think so.But we also talk jewelry. Not as trend, but as text. Symbols, signals, little indulgences that reveal how we see ourselves—and what we want others to see.What’s on Tariro’s wrist (and mind):* A Carolina Bucci Lucky Bracelet — silk and gold, worn until the threads say something new* A Cartier Juste un Clou — flipped backwards to reclaim its meaning* A Charm Factory Star Bracelet — substantial, a little magical* And rings by Vanessa Hernandez — “the light of my life,” as Tariro puts itEach of these pieces comes with a story. A context. A cultural echo. And that’s what this episode is about: the meaning beneath the sparkle.🛍 Explore jewelry that tells a story📩 Subscribe to Tariro’s Substack: Trademarked This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I had the joy of sitting down with Colin Keane Lynch, the artist and jeweler behind Keane. His work has been part of At Present’s assortment for years, but this conversation offered the time to slow down, zoom out, and ask how meaning is made—through hands, history, and a thousand degrees of heat.Colin’s pieces are hand-formed from glass in his Brooklyn Navy Yard studio—each one made by him, start to finish. But as we talked, it became clear that the true through-line in his work isn’t just craftsmanship or aesthetics—it’s curiosity. The kind that spans childhoods spent among zookeepers and chemists, travels to glassblowing ateliers in Italy, and hours upon hours of studio time where intention meets improvisation.Three Pea Ring, Silver/RedWe talked about how value is created—economically, emotionally, and artistically. And about how hard it is to define what’s “worth it” in a world where perception can feel like quicksand.From Zoo Animals to Murano GlassColin grew up in St. Louis. His father was a zookeeper at the St. Louis Zoo, and his mother ran her family’s industrial coatings business—formulating everything from Steinway piano lacquers to experimental nail polish for dentists. (“Don’t ask,” he said, which of course only made me want to ask more.) His parents also ran an artisan import business sourcing from Central Mexico and Italy, where their connections eventually led Colin to spend a summer in Murano learning to blow glass from some of the world’s masters—at just 15.That summer was a turning point, not just creatively but conceptually. He described the experience as a kind of apprenticeship-in-motion, where the discipline of making met the thrill of learning without limits. It was like being sent to basketball camp and finding out your coach is Michael Jordan.RISD, Raves, and the Real Work of Art SchoolColin later studied in the glass program at RISD—not a technical program, but a conceptual one. Students weren’t asked to replicate historical forms; they were asked to investigate identity, systems, form, and meaning through material. The prompts were abstract (“Make something about identity”), and the materials were sometimes unconventional: crushed brick, spun sugar, yarn. He learned how to think about materials not as tools, but as collaborators.It was, he said, intimidating. And invaluable.From Menswear to MeaningAfter graduating into the 2008 financial crisis, Colin pivoted briefly into menswear—joining the team at Odin, one of the first high-concept men’s boutiques in New York. There, he helped launch their in-house apparel line and quickly became immersed in the design and production side of fashion. That experience taught him not just how to source and manufacture, but how to prototype, iterate, and communicate ideas to customers.And more importantly, it gave him a retail laboratory. He could make jewelry—small-batch, experimental pieces—and see in real time what resonated. The first piece he ever sold? A simple glass vial necklace with gold leaf suspended inside. Not precious, but poetic.On Glass, Value, and What's Really RareWe spent time in this conversation probing a recurring theme: how value gets ascribed. Colin sees parallels between precious jewelry and high-end clothing—when it’s done well and with intention, the materials and the story matter. But he’s wary of value that’s based solely on scarcity or branding. We talked about diamonds. We talked about perception. We talked about the ancient Egyptians, who once considered glass more valuable than gold because of the rarity of the knowledge it took to make it.“Most people don’t know how anything is made,” Colin told me. “But when they visit the studio and see even a glimpse of the process, it completely changes how they see the work.”It’s true. The moment you understand what goes into something—time, technique, the moment-to-moment improvisation of molten material—you stop seeing it as just a product. It becomes a story. Pea Necklace, Night ShadeCreative Influence and ProcessColin’s own process remains deeply hands-on and exploratory. He starts with a theme—Missouri cave systems, '90s rave culture, pigment and color—and lets the material guide him. Some collections come from research, others from intuition. Often, the best ideas come from scraps—pieces of failed experiments or discarded glass that yield unexpected inspiration.We also talked about the artists who influence him:* Wolfgang Laib, who collects marigold pollen by hand to form luminous floor installations—art born from patience and process.* Gordon Matta-Clark, who carved and deconstructed architecture as sculpture.* René Lalique, the French glassmaker whose fluid Art Nouveau forms continue to echo in the work of artists today.The Future of KeaneWhen I asked him what comes next, Colin’s answer wasn’t a five-year plan. It was a hope: more balance. Maybe a day off here or there. Maybe a production assistant who understands the medium enough to help. But he’s wary of compromising the intentionality that defines his work. Every piece is still made by hand. One at a time. By him.He wants to make work that’s both beautiful and accessible—something that someone like his younger self, shopping at thrift stores in St. Louis, could afford. That democratic vision sits at the heart of Keane.If you’ve ever worn one of Colin’s pieces—or admired it from across a room—you’ve already felt it. The material magic. The play between transparency and color. The sense of something made with care, meant to last.I’m honored we curate Keane on At Present. And I’m grateful to Colin—not just for this conversation, but for showing us what it means to build a life and a practice out of intention, iteration, and the willingness to start over.📷 Explore Keane on At Present This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com