The Struggle Climbing Show

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores: How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S. The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It) The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted What are the "rules" of climbing anyway? Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber How to have more fun as a climber right now - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com  Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

In this engaging conversation, Annette Guo, a dedicated weekend warrior climber, shares her remarkable journey from struggling on 5.11 to sending twelve 5.12s in one year. She discusses her effective strength training techniques that led to fewer injuries and boosted her confidence. Annette emphasizes the importance of focusing on one goal at a time and the benefits of regular self-assessments. Her analytical skills shine as she reveals her impressive planning and logging systems that help streamline her training, making climbing improvements more targeted and effective.

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including: Which grip type is the best to train? How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results  Which finger training to do pre season vs in season  What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?  Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade? The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs   Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training  Training while injured  How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day  How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game  Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing? How Tyler programs his training and climbing days  What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Climbing Coach Nate Drolet captains the Struggle Bus on my Road to V8 as we cover: Recap of winter strength and power training Climbing my first gym V7 Getting better without getting stronger Video assessment of recent board struggles Macro vs micro beta when it comes to board training How to learn from our better climbing friends Why Nate could tell I wasn’t REALLY trying Why sport climbing can sabotage bouldering goals Nerd Gummies and other tricks to send - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! If you’re looking to equip your home wall with some beautiful hand-crafted wood holds, check out http://ManaHolds.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.     And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Kyra Condie, an elite climber and Olympian, dives deep into her experiences and strategies for success. She shares her struggles with performance anxiety and the lessons learned from injuries, including scoliosis. Kyra discusses training techniques like campusing and her effective hangboard routine. She also highlights the importance of skin care for climbers and tells intriguing stories from her competition experiences. Finally, Kyra provides insights into the evolving landscape of climbing competitions and the quest for sponsorships in the climbing world.

In this engaging discussion, Aaron Townsley, a dedicated climber and community advocate with the Bighorn Climbers Coalition, reveals his transformative finger training protocol. He shares how he achieved over 40 pounds of strength per hand in just a year. Listeners will learn about intentional training techniques, the importance of grip work, and innovative methods to overcome setbacks. Aaron emphasizes the significance of structured training and progressive loading, inspiring weekend warriors to elevate their climbing game and enhance their performance.

Toby Segar, a parkour athlete and climber from STORROR, shares his insights on transitioning from parkour to climbing. He emphasizes the importance of a beginner's mindset and offers strategies for overcoming the fear of falling. Toby discusses the art of crack climbing and shares his finger training methods that have skyrocketed his performance. He encourages climbers to avoid self-doubt, stating, 'I'm not strong enough' is a limiting belief. The conversation wraps up with thoughts on maintaining a creative approach to tackling dynamic climbs.

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The issue with inside out and outside in Naked in nature Tick mark hot takes Rehabbing a shoulder injury like a boss Anna's insane itinerary Brooke sending 5.15c The power of picking the right route My Road to V8 update Big wall send ethics    Watch the uncut video at The Struggle's or Anna's Patreons: patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow patreon.com/annahazelnutt - Shoutout to Rúngne for sponsoring this Crag Chat! Use code STRUGGLE to get 10% off Magdust chalk, performance apparel, and pretty much everything on their site. Plus, you can score free shipping to the U.S. on a bunch of bundles (on top of the 10% off code)!    Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Check out Anna’s latest videos on her YT channel: youtube.com/@annahazelnutt  Check out The Struggle’s latest videos at: youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow  Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @annahazelnutt  - Are you as obsessed with training and climbing as I am? If so, check out the 5-Year Training and Performance Journal that I created, where you can log and reflect on all of your struggles, sends, adventures, and metrics over the next 5 years. It's the most important climbing tool I have, and it brings me so much joy each day!  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In our latest 'Road To' installment, Coach Eric Hörst joins to discuss: How to handle big swings in performance from season to season Why I was feeling bad about where I’m at this spring  My pyramid to date for 2025 The benefits of building strength as a route climber  How to maintain strength while in a sport climbing season  Where bouldering should fit in for me during the spring season  Jared Leto vs Ryan Devlin The new tool I scored on Marketplace to take my training to the next level 30:30 protocol for a sport climbing power-up The massive amount of new development and amazing new routes coming online at the red  The art of the second go send - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Climber, writer, and podcaster, Luke Mehall of The Climbing Zine, joins to discuss:   Starting training at age 40 and unlocking big gains Falling in love with sport climbing What it means to have a dirtbag state of mind Why all climbers should write and writers should climb  Developing hundreds of routes and what makes the process so special Route development 101 for those interested in first ascents The climbing scene in El Potrero The Climbing Zine and why YOU should be getting it   Subscribe to The Climbing Zine and check out its podcast, Dirtbag State of Mind - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you’re psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.    And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!