The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset.  At Ayo's suggestion, we sat down for our conversation at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which turned out to be the perfect place for this episode.  Check out Ayo's art at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/12/26/episode-117-form-and-function-with-ayo-sopeju Follow Ayo on Instagram at www.instagram.com/think_ele We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training.  You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/ You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how.  I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercrack with a rich history, and thus, mythology. One that she wasn't immune to, yet she pushed through it.  You can find Brittany online at http://soclosewiz.tumblr.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/gorisb We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries.  You can find Esther Smith at http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/ You can find Eva Lopez at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  To Recap: 5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late. 4. Getting stuck in bad beta.  3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire. 2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general. 1. Projecting in the wrong range.   You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Part 2 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For today's Board Meeting, Nate and I sat down with Red River legend Dru Mack to discuss the top 5 most common pitfalls of redpointing. It's a complex process - one that we've all made our share of mistakes in. This conversation ended up being around 2.5 hours long, so I've decided to split it into 5 bite sized pieces over the next week.  You can find Dru on the instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with Episode 64 alum Trevor Ragan. If you haven't listened to Ep 64 yet... go do that now. We'll wait.  Trevor and I caught up after a TED X Talk he gave in Lander, to discuss the principles and theories behind motor learning. I quite selfishly gave him scenarios and examples using the drills we've created for our workshops and coaching, and asked how he might improve upon them based on the research behind motor learning.  If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen.  You can find Trevor at www.trainugly.com You can find our Movement Skills ebook, built from these principles, HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.