Brewers Journal Podcast

The UK is blessed with breweries of all shapes and sizes. Some are tight-knit, modest operations while others operate out of facilities that could be mistaken for an aircraft hangar.  That doesn’t mean that one is good, and one is bad, or vice-versa. They’re just different and of course, variety is the spice of life. And while Mike Deal and his team are unlikely to come across many spices in the vast greenery that surrounds their brewery, working with locally-foraged produce has been a major part of Wildcraft Brewery’s ethos since its formation. The former teacher turned head brewer at the Buxton, Norfolk-based business takes pride in the beer he makes and the role the brewery plays in the local community. In this episode, he talks us through his journey, the brewery’s expansion plans and the ways Wildcraft has worked with the wider world during a challenging 2020.

Bottleshops are such an important part of the fabric of the brewing industry. In a Venn diagram they’re sitting in the middle, fulfilling an invaluable role connecting the breweries with the consumers that enjoy the fruits of their labour. In this episode, we speak to the founder of one such bottleshop – Marius Andrici. On 1st January 2007, Bulgaria and Romania became member states of the European Union in the fifth wave of EU enlargement. It meant the people such as Marius Andrici, a Romanian hailing from the country’s Banat region, could realise his dreams of seeing and working somewhere new. For the young Romanian, the the only destination on his mind was London, England. And 13 years on, Andrici is now busy looking after thirsty drinkers at his own bottle shop. Based in Acton, West London, A Pint of Hops opened its doors in the April of 2019. In this episode, we speak to Andrici to learn about the A Pint of Hops’ first 18 months trading, catering for the community during lockdown and the challenges of running your own business.

Last month, Beavertown opened the doors on its new London brewery. The facility, which will create up to 150 jobs, will enable the brewery to produce up to 500,000hl and to brew in 150hl batches, equivalent of 90,000,00 pints per annum, on its Krones brewhouse. It also boasts a complete KHS, which has the capacity to fill up to 30,000 cans per hour in 330ml format, and a KHS keg line that can fill up to 160 kegs per hour in 30l format and the ability to be expanded in the future to an ultimate capacity of 240 kegs per hour.The opening of Beaverworld is the latest stage in the brewery’s journey, which started back in 2012. And the brewery build was a major undertaking at any point in time, it just so happened those involved had a global pandemic to navigate during the project, too. In this podcast, we visit Beaverworld to speak to founder Logan Plant and lead brewer Chris Lewington about the brewery’s exciting new capabilities, the hurdles the team have overcome on the way and the changing role Beavertown is playing in the wider beer sector.  This episode is sponsored by QCL and Muntons Malt.

If you want something done right, do it yourself.” This mentality has led to the creation countless companies and brands over the years. In the world of beer, brewers across the globe have taken to making their own beers in a bid to recreate styles that captured their imagination during their travels. In doing so, we’ve ended up with  a wealth of excellent new breweries and beers. For Tom Bott and Sam McGregor, cousins bonded by a love of live music and great beer, their decision to start Signature Brew came from frustration of the evident inability to marry those passions. You either had a pub or bar with great beer, or a favourite venue that only poured an endless array of dull macro lagers. It was time to take things into their own hands. In this podcast, we speak to Tom and Sam about the journey of Signature Brew, starting out over a pint back in 2011 to the new brewery in Walthamstow, London, they call home today. And this journey has involved significant expansion, numerous awards and collaborations with top music-industry names. Producing a wealth of excellent beers, they’ve successfully combined their two passions. And they’ve not only brought great beer to the live music arena, they’re part of it, too. 

Working in the brewing industry involves a lot of hard work, and long hours. Whether you’re in the field of production and packaging, or maybe sales and distribution, it has often been far too easy for many to forget that brewing industry professionals are not robots. And the Covid-19 pandemic has made a challenging career path an even tougher profession to navigate because, as we all know, the brewing industry, with its own pressures, is not immune from the impact of the global situation. But the relationship between mental health in brewing is nothing new. Far from it. It is, however, an area that has flown under the radar for far too long. In this episode we look at the relationship between the brewing industry and the people that make it. And while the global pandemic has meant that we’ve not been able to host as many of Brewers Lectures as we’d like this year, in the podcast we’ll hear talks from two our previous events. Stu McKinlay, co-founder of Yeastie Boys and Rich White, the founder of Werewolf Beer, share their experiences from working in the brewing industry, the pressures that come with that, and how we can do more to look after others and ourselves.

You can make your way in this industry with great beer but with that, you need to be genuine in your approach. Brew the beers you truly want to make and people will react in kind, explains Theo Freyne, founder of Deya Brewing Company. “Starting out, my goal was for Deya to become one of the best breweries in the UK,” explains a pensive Theo Freyne. Freyne is the founder of Cheltenham’s Deya Brewing Company. He says: “I don’t think there’s anything wrong with ambition. But to be known as a brewery that makes beer that people enjoy, surprises me each and every day. It shows you’re doing something right.” Deya has come on leaps and bounds in its relatively short life to-date. Starting out in 2015, Freyne (above right) had a Masters of Brewing and Distilling from Heriot-Watt under his belt, alongside internships at Colorado’s Odell Brewery and, closer to home, Cotswold Brewery. Operating out of a 4000sqft unit from January 2016, Freyne and the team operated a 10bbl kit, scaling up earlier recipes such as the excellent Pale Ale, Steady Rolling Man. The popularity of the beer, alongside numbers such as Into the Haze, led to the addition of extra capacity, a canning line and invitations to pour at prestigious beer festivals across the UK. In 2019, the brewery expanded into new 25,000sqft premises complete with a 40hl four vessel brewhouse. Not to mention a 2,000sqft destination taproom. Despite the rapid rise, Freyne takes nothing for granted. “Things have moved quickly,” he says. “There are a lot of breweries taking that major step up. Producing juicy, often hazy, Pale Ales and IPAs, you have to take a step back and ask what ceiling those beers have.” He adds: “Spending time at Odell was massively eye-opening for me. Operating in a competitive and mature market, they showed that beer had to be at the highest level to compete. “For me, it’s about keeping things simple but trying to do those things very well and doing them because you truly want to.” It’s that reasoning which informs Freyne’s desire to brew Pale Ales and IPAs, as well as a burgeoning mixed fermentation project. “I’m not really into big barrel-aged stouts or the pastry side of things. It’s just not what we’re about,” he explains. “Brew what makes you happy and if you’re doing that, nobody can tell you that your approach is anything other than genuine.” Freyne adds: “If we loved big stouts we’d be doing an awful lot of them, it’s as simple as that. “I want authenticity to come out in each beer we brew. That’s why I’ll always look up to The Kernel. People buy The Kernel because that brand represents quality and consistency, I want the same for Deya.”

Brasserie De La Senne has made its name with beers such as Taras Boulba and Zinnebir. Complex, bitter beers underpinned by balance, subtlety and nuance. For Yvan De Baets, co-founder of the Brussels brewery, these are the beers he wants to make and enjoy. He just wishes more brewers would do the same. There are certain beers that belong at the high-table of modern brewing. Beers that form part of a patchwork that command appreciation from drinkers across the globe. Taras Boulba is one such beer. The 4.5% session blonde is generously hopped with the finest aromatic hops, resulting in a refreshing spicy character and a scent reminiscent of citrus. Beers such as Taras Boulba and Zinnebir, its venerable Belgian style Pale Ale, define what Brasserie De La Senne is about. Unfiltered, unpasteurised output characterised by bitterness. A facet that inspired De Baets and co-founder Bernard Leboucq to brew beers they could no longer find on the market. They explain: “Bitterness is the key characteristic of our beers: it is their foundation. We have produced bitter beers since the beginning of our existence – and we are here to brew bitter beers! “Our approach was simple: we wanted to brew beers to our liking that we could no longer find on the market. We took on the challenge to bring this flavour – so fundamental in the evolution of human societies but sadly neglected in our modern societies – up to date.” Seven years on, De Baets believes that bitterness is still severely lacking in the broader brewing landscape and he wants that to change.  “Too many brewers are listening to the beer geeks, they should listen to themselves and to their hearts. And for me, that means bitterness,” says De Baets. “Too many brewers are desperately trying to follow trends and make beers that garner social media attention. There seems to be an obligation to make New England IPAs and let’s be honest, there are many brewers that do not enjoy making those beers. It doesn’t feel normal for everyone wanting to make and drink one type of beer.” He adds: “We prefer to try and open the consumers’ mind, making the beers we like and to try and convince them of those qualities, too. “When we started out, had we followed the local market we’d only be making Tripels. Too many young brewers make beer without ever thinking what they want, and instead what others want. That can be stupid. “If that’s your approach then you start running and you’ll never finish running. It can be good to settle down. The best breweries are those with a vision and take on the challenge to change consumer opinions. Your personality should be in each beer you make.”

Following a decade working in New York State craft beer; Gabe Barry says moving to Paris was like switching to lambics after only ever drinking German Pilsner. Despite her new surroundings, Brooklyn Brewery’s education manager of Europe explained one thing remains the same and that’s the power beer has as a catalyst for positive social change. “It’s been a leap into being humbled, exercising patience and a lot of waiting. A big change of pace after eight years of living in Brooklyn,” she explains. From visa issues and learning French, to education focused objectives such as no longer having a brewery to teach in, it was a period of going back to the basics for Brooklyn Brewery’s education manager of Europe. Barry says: “Rather than jumping in head first with brand new projects, I’ve been observing a lot. In 2014 I created my first education based position for Brooklyn Brewery and I honestly feel like I misstepped a bit that round. I came out of the gate guns blazing with all these ideas about what I wanted to do, what other people needed – ready to just ‘fix everything’. “It caused a lot of extra work for me but also taught me about communication, expectations and intentionality. As Brooklyn has grown to be a bit of a global brewery; it’s important we remember to strive and meet the needs of the local community rather than rolling up and telling a drinking culture what they need.” She spends around two thirds of her time on the road, which makes the work/life balance a “certain kind of ballet” but also a lifestyle that affords her to experience different beer communities all around Europe. Barry explains: “Working with Brooklyn Brewery has given me this gift for years of being supported on weird ideas I’ve had and then encouraged into making them realities. This year I’ve done a lot of reflecting on past projects I’ve worked on and seeing where they fit on this side of the pond. “Looking again at things like curriculums on beer linguistics for bartenders all the way to more elaborate dinner series programs I ran with my mentor, Garrett Oliver. I’ve been really looking not only at what would work here but what would support and add value for the uniquely different beverage communities around the world.” Barry admits that over the years, she has fallen in love with the idea of ‘the non-traditional classroom’ or more simply; the bar or shared drinking space. She adds: “I think bars have historically been the centre point of social change for centuries and so naturally craft beer has fallen into its rightful place as a tool or catalyst for something bigger. “One of my favourite things about this year has been seeing the way breweries and beer communities are becoming both more sustainable and technically efficient and yet we’re also going back to the basics- with our beers and with ourselves. “We’re back to the idea of the water hole, pub, bar or tasting room be the centerpiece of our ecosystems culturally connecting community with the hopes of a greater good. It’s a reality I’m excited about supporting while using beer education as the medium for changing the world.”

Harvey’s is truly a brewery for all seasons. It exists within that special sphere that commands admiration and respect. If you’re a beer lover then more than likely, you love the beer produced by Harvey’s. And under the guidance of Miles Jenner, head brewer since 1986 and joint managing director for nearly 20 years, the Lewes, Sussex-based brewery has demonstrated staying power without ever compromising on its principles. Jenner’s life in brewing covers more than 60 years, growing up alongside Harvey’s Brewery itself, and he plays a key role in an age where there are more breweries in the country than at any time since the end of the Nineteenth Century. “However, with the greatest respect in the world, I cannot imagine future generations exploring the utilitarian industrial units that house the stainless steel tanks of today’s new wave of entrants. That is not to say that they do not produce very fine beer, Nor that all are lacking in romance,” he explains. “You have only to visit Mark Tranter at Burning Sky to be blown away by the cocktail of passion, innovation and tradition housed in a nineteenth century Sussex Barn – complete with Artisan blending vaults.” In this podcast, recorded at last year’s Brewers Congress, Jenner takes us on a trip through the heritage of the industry. A grade 2 listed building that perpetuates traditional brewing in every sense. It comes at a cost, though. They recently spent more than £100k on maintaining the fabric of the building. He explains: “We are also largely hands on – unwilling to place ourselves at the mercy of automation, we believe the human factor is important. I always say that, if I was starting from scratch, I would not design a brewery like this. “The truth is, I probably would! I, too, am an incurable romantic and revel in the continuity of standing at a mash tun in the early hours where generations of brewers have stood before – all with the same pursuit of excellence. “There is a lesson to be learnt. Enjoy the heritage of the past but always remain relevant and strive to survive. You can survive adversity, flood and fire as you encounter those challenges but no one has a God given right to sell beer. Innovation is essential but, equally, life often comes full circle. To my mind, this is strangely reassuring. “We should all adapt to circumstances and the changing face of the industry but we should always seek to accommodate and preserve what is dearest to our hearts until circumstances conspire to bring them back into vogue.”

It is a cold, wet miserable day when you decide to visit Hogs Back Brewery in Surrey. The farm fields themselves are muddy, and with their soppy brown colour and the grey, grey, oppressing sky above, it almost seems a reflection as to what the country – and the beer industry – is going through at the moment. But, if you had the courage to leave the warm, dry confines of your SUV and walk out in these ancient fields, you would see hop plants growing, for this is one of  England’s traditional hop regions. The vines are pushing up light green leaves through the mud and it makes you realise that despite the doomsayers,  just how tough and resilient our industry is today and always has been.    The fields that you see belong to Hogs Back Brewery, which prides itself on growing its own, an idea of director Rupert Thompson who believes in not only producing great beers, but also in using local ingredients and being as self-sufficient as possible. It’s not enough to say you want to reduce your carbon footprint ­– do it! In this episode we’ll be talking hops, hops, and more hops with head brewer Miles Chesterman and hop garden manager Matthew King, all with a promise of no bitter, just a smooth taste for your listening pleasure. SPONSOR Support for this episode comes from Petainer. Petainer is a specialist PET packaging company and industry leader in manufacturing one-way kegs, preforms & bottles and refillable PET bottles with recycled content. We serve markets around the world, and work with customers such as Carlsberg and AB InBev.Covid-19 has taken the beverage industry by storm and heavily impacted logistics and business operations. Breweries are struggling to access viable packaging solutions and manage excess stock still sitting in their tanks.  In this time of uncertainty, Petainer kegs will bring additional flexibility to your business, protect your products and minimise losses. With no costly upfront investments, they can be filled on manual, semi-automatic and automatic filling equipment and will help you avoid the burden of keg leasing programmes.  Filled Petainer kegs typically have a 9 month shelf-life and can be dispensed like a steel keg. To speak with our team and for further information, visit petainer.com