Dropping In Surf Show Podcast

Rob Sleamaker, author, coach, sports physiologist and founder/CEO of Vasa Trainer. He discusses the Vasa's origins and how it evolved from a Nordic-ski concept to a swim and paddle ergometer. They cover how the tool entered swim and surf science, differences between Vasa models, visual tape technique for stroke path, and the role of core, timing, and short consistent workouts for paddling fitness.

This podcast explores the scientific research conducted at the Kelly Slater Surf Ranch, focusing on topics like duck diving technique, wave behavior, acceleration in surfing, wave dynamics, timing underwater, wave bouncing, sediment transfer, and the impact of offshore winds on wave positioning and height.

They unpack what vortex ratio is and why it matters for reading barrels and tube shape. Short, punchy explanations cover peel angle, breaking intensity, and orthogonal seabed gradient. Practical talk links vortex ratio to paddling strategy, positioning, and which board to choose on different waves.

Rob is joined by Dr. Charles Theivagt, Otolaryngologist, on today’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show. They discuss methods to optimize performance by stimulating the Vagus nerve, why using a breathing pattern from crying helps, why sight is so important in balance, and what’s the deal with surfer’s ear. Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show 

In today’s episode of the Dropping In Surf Show, Rob provides the top two things that a surfer needs to accelerate their skill learning in a surf session. He outline the science behind why these two steps are important and how you can modify your sessions to optimize skill learning and performance.

Research-backed breakdown of the surf pop up, from strength and mobility to biomechanics. Discussion of force plate studies, sex differences in force and landing, and motion-capture findings on contact versus flight transitions. Exploration of knee-first pop-ups for low back issues and what studies suggest for practical training priorities.

They dig into how the moon and sun create tidal bulges and why lunar timing matters. Listeners hear why spring and neap tides form and how orbital distance changes tidal size. The conversation covers how coast shape, bays and weather amplify or delay tides. Practical parts explain how tidal range, rate of swing and slack windows affect whether a surf spot will break.

History and recent research behind the S-stroke and how early swim science shaped techniques. Comparisons of deep catch versus S-stroke using CFD and force analyses. Practical paddling tips for surfers: when to use deep catch or S-like patterns and why feeling pressure matters. Discussion of training, biomechanics, and surf-specific gaps in the research.

Rob breaks down a detailed CSU San Marcos study which characterized upper extremity muscle activation generated by surfers while paddling. The study describes which muscle groups are firing, and their duration, magnitude and timing of activation throughout the stroke at different speeds. The team at CSUSM also measured oxygen consumption, paddling cadence, and surfboard motion. The results of the study provide further evidence towards what efficient and effective paddling is, which muscles to train for different paddling speeds, the intensities at which to train for each scenario, and provides a stepping stone for similar research in the future. Come nerd out with Rob and learn if you are activating the correct muscles at the correct time during your paddling! Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show

Rob goes deep into a scientific principle around how fluids behave to teach you several aspects in surfing, from surf forecasting to paddling technique to riding the wave. This one principle impacts the entire life-cycle of a wave, is incorporated in our interaction with the waves as we read them and ride them, and is present in our experience even before we hit the water. Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show