The Business of Fashion Podcast

On Monday Jan. 26, Jonathan Anderson debuted his first couture collection for Christian Dior.In December, BoF founder Imran Amed travelled to Paris to meet with Anderson to get a first look, and to take stock of his journey thus far. Anderson is unveiling his first Dior couture collection while orchestrating a sprawling calendar across men’s, women’s and accessories. He explains how couture went from “irrelevant” in his mind to an emotional, craft-first engine for the house — and why he’s reshaping how Dior makes, shows and shares couture with clients and the public.“Couture is an endangered craft," he says. In this conversation, Anderson reflects on why couture exists, how endangered craft can be protected and the very human reality of leading a global fashion machine.Key Insights: Anderson admits that a year ago he never saw himself in couture. Now he describes fittings as an education within a living French institution. “I joke every time I’m in a fitting, I feel like I am doing a PhD in couture,” he says. Seeing the atelier at work reframed it entirely: “Couture is kind of like an endangered craft. What Dior is doing is protecting this as a national symbol of making,” says Anderson. “Once I got into that mind space, then I was able to work out, okay, well, what do I want from it? Or what is new for Dior in a landscape that’s had some of my heroes in it.”Anderson is reframing couture as an experience to be studied, not just scrolled — extending the 15-minute show into a three-part journey. Act I: the runway. Act II: intimate cabinet presentations at Villa Dior, where clients handle every component with the atelier team on hand, followed by days of selling. Act III: a free public exhibition that places the new collection in dialogue with Christian Dior and artist Magdalene Ndondue — an invitation to witness technique, context and provenance up close. As he puts it: “A photograph will never tell you that a dress took 4,000 hours. ... I’m inviting people to see something physical, because it may change your mind — it might change your opinion of it.”Before unveiling his first Dior women’s collection, Anderson invited John Galliano to privately view the work — a full-circle moment with a hero who helped define Dior in the public imagination. Galliano arrived with two bunches of wild cyclamen tied with black ribbon, a gesture that became talismanic for the Spring/Summer 2026 show’s pink-and-black mood and forest-floor set details. More than the symbolism, it was Galliano’s counsel that stuck: “The more that you love Dior, the brand, the more it will give you back,” recounts Anderson. Anderson argues for real transparency around the people off-camera who turn an idea into a product and a show into a business. He highlights merchandisers, window teams, logistics, finance and operations — all of whom translate creative vision into reality. “It may not be creative, but they work in a creative business; they have to try to work out how to make a designer’s dream come true. If we want to pull the veil down, we have to do it in all categories. A fashion show is not just me; I am the conductor,” he says. “I have a responsibility to the hundreds, thousands of people who work here to make sure it works. It’s a balancing act.”Anderson wants each show to have its own energy while still speaking a shared Dior language. “I will build a vibe or a kind of culture around a brand, but then… the energy of each show has to be a different energy.” He adds: “They all also have to be linked. There is a language that is built.” Working with Dior chief executive Delphine Arnault, Anderson is trying to “put down concrete blocks”. Some will “end up being sand and then you’ll have to rebuild it,” he says.Additional Resources:Jonathan Anderson | BoF 500Clothes for Life or Clothes as Costume?Louis Vuitton, Dior and What Luxury Means Today Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

A personal origin story sparks a search for purpose and creative authenticity. Technology and disruption are framed as unexpected routes and big opportunities. The industry’s three tensions—mindless growth, values without systems, and shifting authority—get a clear critique. Listeners hear calls for restraint, supply-chain redesign, and earning trust through consistent work.

Mike Sykes, a BOF reporter and sneaker culture expert, dives into the debate surrounding the future of sneakers. He discusses a troubling Bank of America report hinting at the potential end of the sneaker boom, sparking industry nerves, especially after Adidas' double downgrade. However, Mike argues that slowing growth might just indicate a market correction rather than an end to the trend. He also explores alternatives to sneakers and how brands could pivot to new casual footwear as consumer preferences evolve.

Willa Bennett, the editor-in-chief of Cosmopolitan and Seventeen, is transforming traditional youth media for a social-first audience. She shares how her early experiences, from cold-emailing Seventeen to capturing youth culture at Highsnobiety with initiatives like the Billie Eilish cover, shaped her vision. Bennett discusses the importance of curation in an era overflowing with content and how she combines luxury with secondhand styles. Her insights into engaging young audiences and revitalizing legacy brands are enlightening for anyone in media.

Join Kat Chen, BoF's retail editor and luxury expert, as she unpacks Saks' shocking bankruptcy filing. With $1.75 billion in restructuring plans and immense debt, she examines the reasons behind their financial downfall, including missed vendor payments and the burdens of their merger. Chen highlights the importance of shifting retail strategies, advocating for Saks to prioritize service and clienteling while learning from successful models like Dover Street Market. Are creditors set to gain ownership post-restructuring? Tune in for critical insights!

Priya Rao, Executive Editor of The Business of Beauty and expert in beauty industry trends, joins the discussion on the current state of M&A in beauty. She reveals Estée Lauder's plan to package Too Faced, Smashbox, and Dr. Jart for sale to streamline their portfolio. Priya highlights how market saturation is affecting makeup valuations while interest in fragrance and bodycare is surging. She also assesses potential buyers and the importance of strong leadership for future M&A activity.

Join Bryan Yambao, a pioneering fashion blogger from Manila; Camille Charrière, a savvy fashion influencer; Gstaad Guy, a comedic commentator; and Susanna Lau, a veteran creator and moderator. They explore the evolution of the influencer economy, reflecting on the shift from personal storytelling to strict brand briefs. Yambao shares his journey from an outsider to a key player. Charrière emphasizes the necessity of maintaining audience trust, while Gstaad Guy uses satire to challenge brands. Together, they call for a return to authenticity and craftsmanship in luxury fashion.

Marc Bain, BoF correspondent and expert on the State of Fashion report, delves into what 2026 holds for the industry. He highlights the growing concerns over tariffs and rising prices, emphasizing the need for brands to prove their value to consumers. Bain discusses luxury's pivotal shift towards creativity and authenticity, as well as the burgeoning interest in smart glasses and fine jewellery. AI's role in enhancing efficiency and shaping consumer interactions is also explored, offering a glimpse into how technology will impact shopping experiences in the near future.

In this fascinating conversation, Black Coffee, the acclaimed South African DJ and producer, shares his journey from local talent to global superstar. He discusses overcoming barriers in the music industry and reshaping perceptions of Africa on the world stage. Reflecting on his life-changing experience during Nelson Mandela's release, he highlights the importance of presentation and discipline in his rise. Black Coffee also offers advice to emerging artists, encouraging them to stay true to their vision despite external pressures.

Awar Odhiang, a South Sudanese-Canadian model known for her viral moment closing Matthieu Blazy's debut Chanel show, shares her inspiring journey from refugee to international runway star. She discusses the pivotal moment of being scouted while working at Old Navy and how that transformed her self-belief. Awar critiques the fashion industry's approach to inclusion, emphasizing the importance of genuine representation and decision-making. She also highlights the joy of self-expression she experienced on stage and the boundaries she sets to maintain her happiness in a demanding industry.