The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt
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May 10, 2024 • 1h 31min

EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! Get coaching from Mat!matwrightcoaching.comCheck out Kletterkalk UK!kletterkalk.co.ukMat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation(00:24:22) – Making your own luck(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2(00:41:37) – The send(00:44:54) – The process(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off(01:11:00) – Taking time off(01:18:37) – Less vs. more(01:24:07) – Wrap up
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May 6, 2024 • 2h

EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)

Dr. David Spiegel, a Stanford psychiatrist, discusses hypnosis benefits, self-hypnosis for stress relief, breathing exercises, and new Reveri App. Touches on the blend of analytical problem-solving and intuitive flow states in climbing, enhancing focus through self-hypnosis, and debunking misconceptions about hypnosis.
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5 snips
May 3, 2024 • 1h 3min

EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training

Maddy Cope, an endurance training expert, shares a masterclass on endurance training, including key takeaways from the main episode. Topics covered include weekend sends, common misunderstandings in endurance training, and free endurance protocols from Lattice's new online course.
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5 snips
Apr 29, 2024 • 2h 40min

EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

Renowned climber, Maddy Cope, shares insights on transitioning from dancing to climbing, discomfort in climbing, pleasure pointing, and embracing the joy of missing out. The podcast delves into the balance between discomfort and comfort, listening to body cues in climbing, and finding joy in missing out. Maddy also discusses humility, recognition, climbing training, and education at Lattice, and offers a discount on their online training course.
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Apr 22, 2024 • 2h 17min

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

Nathan Williams shares insights on climbing 'Return of the Sleepwalker' 9A/V17, gaining legendary finger strength in minutes per week, static feats of strength, and staying motivated after bad days. Mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras, Nathan talks about his climbing journey, love for ROTS, friction control, and climbing with a purpose.
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4 snips
Apr 15, 2024 • 1h 60min

EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

Neely Quinn, founder of Training Beta, discusses mindset work with Hazel Findlay, overcoming self-doubt, banishing shame, and how working on your mindset can make you climb harder. The podcast also includes a life coaching session, strategies for managing negative emotions, and finding contentment in climbing.
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Apr 8, 2024 • 1h 49min

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!Check out Arc'teryx!Shop for my favorite approach shoesCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenziNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi(00:05:37) – Early climbing(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength(00:29:17) – External pressure(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C(00:36:09) – Optimism(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals(01:17:31) – Future competition plans(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b(01:42:18) – Support from his dad(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
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Apr 1, 2024 • 1h 36min

EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

Filmmaker Carlos Mason discusses creating the climbing film 'Sending', inspired by a car commercial. Topics include Bishop as the location, writing the film's narrative, forming connections through climbing, behind-the-scenes insights, and future film projects.
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7 snips
Mar 25, 2024 • 2h 8min

EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

The podcast delves into Davis Ngo's journey as a climber and Instagram personality, discussing his rise on social media, challenges faced after breaking his back while highballing, the need for pro climbers to be compensated fairly, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and overcoming fear post-injury.
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Mar 18, 2024 • 1h 38min

EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

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