The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt
undefined
Jan 10, 2022 • 1h 39min

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness. *Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert FreehillBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprezNuggets:6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much 53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure? 1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up?  How do you physically prepare for such an experience?1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”
undefined
Jan 7, 2022 • 5min

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco. *I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:55.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch  (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)
undefined
Jan 3, 2022 • 2h 7min

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing

Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more.Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert FreehillBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-moonNuggets:6:02 – Putting a face to the voice, Ben’s travels in the US back in the day, and feeling like he missed out on traveling9:17 – A dry November in the UK, and Will Bosi doing the first repeat of ‘Mutation’11:14 – How Ben first started to climb at age 714:38 – Being “bitten right away” by climbing, and breaking his wrist skateboarding16:17 – Flopping out of school and living off the dole and climbing full time18:57 – Hunter House Road22:16 – Standards and climbing styles in the early 80s, and training on a brick wall26:16 – Climbing equipment in 198427:53 – Buoux, meeting Jerry Moffatt, and Ben’s first-ever road trip35:38 – Doing the FA of ‘Statement of Youth’ 37:54 – Friendly competition39:08 – Dreadlocks and punk rock40:10 – Shifting to bouldering for its own sake42:32 – From 8a to 8c+ (or 9a) in 6 years… what was happening?45:28 – The School Room46:36 – How Ben and Jerry were training in the School Room, how it compares to how people train now, and Ben’s thoughts on deadhanging (hangboarding) and campus boarding51:00 – How the Moonboard first came to be56:56 – Moon Climbing as a company 1:00:42 – Patron question from Griffin: Favorite Moonboard hold set? Best for training? 1:02:06 – Patron question from Rebecca: New hold sets coming? Have you thought about circuits?  1:03:28 – Patron question from Karl: Looking back, what would you change about the Moonboard holds or design?1:05:22 – Why the Moonboard is a vastly more powerful training tool than Ben’s old cellar board1:07:37 – Patron question from Will: How does Ben use the Moonboard, and what are some of his go-to session formats?1:12:35 – Bouldering as Ben’s top training priority, and why he thinks variety is key1:14:11 – How Ben structures his training throughout the year, and within a week 1:17:10 – What Ben and I would each change about our training if we could go back in time1:21:21 – FA of ‘Voyager Sit’ 8B+ (V14)1:24:07 – Quitting climbing after ‘Voyager Sit’, and coming back and climbing ‘Rainshadow’ 9a (5.14d)1:27:59 – Training fitness on the route, and gaining fitness with age, but fighting to maintain strength1:31:17 – Circuit training at the climbing gym1:34:30 – Question from Steve McClure: Does Ben feel the age thing yet?1:38:24 – Ben’s ongoing battle with ‘Northern Lights’, and thoughts on kneebars1:45:38 – Patron question from Markham: Background on the Mini MoonBoard? Future plans for it?1:47:07 – Ben’s thoughts on the MoonBoard gades (he thinks they’re hard!)1:49:24 – How hard Ben climbs on the MoonBoard1:50:11 – Patron question from Florian: Is the Mini MoonBoard the most relevant board for training for rock? 1:51:41 – Recommendations for people who train on a MoonBoard at home, and future tools that will help1:54:29 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: What is the definition of Dowsy Fuck? (turns out it was “Dozy Fuck”), and what it feels like for Ben to watch his old movies1:56:45 – Patron question from Oskar: Where can I watch The Real Thing online? (It’s in the show notes!)1:57:45 – Patron question from Andreson: Any expedition stories?1:58:34 – Starting a clothing brand, and getting inspiration from Christian Griffith2:00:28 – What is Ben’s legacy?2:02:20 – Which of Ben’s climbing achievements stand out to him2:02:37 – What’s next for Ben, and unfinished goals 2:03:40 – Where you can find Ben (@moonclimbing on Instagram)2:03:59 – “Train hard, climb harder.”
undefined
Dec 16, 2021 • 31min

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:25.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingPaige's original episode:EP 24: Paige Claassen
undefined
Dec 13, 2021 • 2h 34min

EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David LahaieBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWebsite Links:Top ListsSteven’s FavoritesShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4Nuggets:0:00 – Intro and updates7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals: 7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall? 25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multi-pitch climbing?49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my body type and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used? 1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences you get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quitting your job, or say fuck it? Also, what is your climbing story?2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in? 2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multi-pitch climb?2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers? 2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?  2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?2:31:30 – Wrapup
undefined
Dec 11, 2021 • 31min

Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)

Tyson Schoene, a coach of champions, discusses the recent USA Climbing Championships, training similarities between top athletes, the importance of keeping training simple, how adult climbs can mimic team training, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.
undefined
Dec 6, 2021 • 1h 51min

EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condieNuggets:5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute11:12 – Kyra’s dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables13:04 – Allison’s (Vest) role in the broadway scenario13:42 – Trying other sports, and discovering climbing15:52 – Patron question from Atlin: If you were to do an Olympic sport besides climbing, what would you want it to be?17:32 – The variety of climbing as a double edge sword19:22 – Interest in comps vs. outdoor climbing23:24 – An X-ray description of Kyra’s back25:06 – Severe idiopathic scoliosis, getting surgery shortly after finding climbing, and growing 2” overnight28:27 – Seatbelts and toilet paper29:39 – How Kyra trains around her back limitation, and how the changes in setting style have forced her to face it head-on33:30 – Shifting her focus more toward lead, and a recap of Nationals37:28 – Separating self-worth from results40:18 – How Kyra feels about her Tokyo experience46:17 – First Olympian with a spinal fusion (at least as large as hers)48:12 – The Olympics as a goal 50:23 – Enjoying not having a goal after Tokyo, and star chasing52:41 – Plans for a non-climbing vacation, and a slight burnout on competitions 53:58 – Being more open about her back as a disability, and being more relatable to others56:24 – 2024 Olympics?58:26 – How Kyra’s training changed leading up to the Olympics, and thriving in organized chaos1:01:40 – How Kyra’s climbing changed from the prep for the Olympics1:03:28 – Thoughts on speed climbing and psicobloc, and deep water soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett1:07:18 – Patron question from Liam: Have you always tried to climb fast in lead? Have you tried other styles?1:09:28 – Training your strengths, and supplementing to address weaknesses1:12:59 – Adopting Pepper and Pika (Kyra’s cats)1:15:30 – Martha the robot-vacuum1:17:08 – Skin and dishwashing gloves, and Kyra’s detergent sponsor1:19:22 – Cleaning/tidiness quarks1:21:23 – Sad movies, and looking for movies on Reddit1:25:08 – Marvel movies, and superheroes1:26:02 – Other favorite movies1:27:21 – Going blonde, and new tattoos1:31:47 – Patron question from Eli: What is your favorite part about your being so deeply ingrained or intertwined with climbing? What is the worst part?1:36:58 – Patron question from Eli: What do you hope the Olympic experience will bring to the broader climbing community?1:38:15 – Olympic memories1:39:14 – What Kyra is most proud of in her climbing career so far, and giving her best1:41:44 – What’s good1:43:07 – What’s next, where to find Kyra, and sharing advice on Reddit1:45:24 – Present focus
undefined
Nov 29, 2021 • 1h 36min

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoytNuggets:4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream shop), and doing V3 his first week15:11 – Crediting everything to his first coach Charlie, and negative reinforcement18:41 – Drills and spray wall climbing23:34 – Climbing at Powerlines, and getting into doing first ascents (FAs)25:25 – “Chase me”, and what Austin learned from watching his coach Charlie climb27:25 – Finding new boulders in famous areas29:17 – The Gunks, and Austin’s Gunkaholics film series33:40 – The season in The Gunks, and what Austin does when it rains for two weeks34:44 – Balancing projecting, outdoor climbing for volume, and indoor training37:15 – The mental battle of projecting, and the first ascent of ‘Flashing Lights’ V1443:14 – ‘Nuclear War’ V1345:52 – Filmmaking, and Austin’s film equipment and influence 49:18 – College plans and dreams to make adventure films52:00 – Plan for a gap year, and comp training54:42 – Dave Graham56:18 – How Austin trains power on a spray wall 57:30 – Guidance for setting a spray wall, and the skill of making up hard climbs to train on1:00:24 – What a spray wall session looks like, and training strengths vs. weaknesses1:02:28 – Patron Question from Brandon: Do you have any roped ambitions in New England?1:04:22 – Bouldering vs. trad in The Gunks1:05:44 – Patron Question from Will: What is your favorite crag north of The Gunks?1:07:48 – Patron Question from Jack: What is your favorite problem on the Speed Boulder at GB?1:08:55 – Patron Question from Avery: How did you become the master of vert?1:11:25 – Austin’s dad, motocross, and broken bones1:14:13 – How his dad supported him in climbing ‘Nuclear Base’ V141:17:39 – Austin’s new project1:19:18 – Climbing algorithms, “The Formula”, and Austin’s perspective on grades1:22:36 – The dream of becoming a pro climber, the current goal of developing the Northeast, my experiences in Leavenworth, and making lists1:26:05 – Applying to colleges near climbing1:27:07 – Beta Labs, and ideas for building his own business1:30:54 – Shoutouts to his sponsors
undefined
Nov 22, 2021 • 2h 54min

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinderNuggets:6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work1:06:16 – Sushi celebration1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?2:25:05 – Graffiti2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next
undefined
Nov 15, 2021 • 2h 11min

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.Donate To:safeclimbing.orgclimbmalawi.comclimbinginitiative.orgSupport the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeoNuggets:5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland9:50 – Working in Ireland10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing 21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi 27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy 30:05 – Good intentions gone awry32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard 37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description52:44 – Ernest54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI 1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route2:03:01 – A better world through climbing2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

The AI-powered Podcast Player

Save insights by tapping your headphones, chat with episodes, discover the best highlights - and more!
App store bannerPlay store banner
Get the app