The Nugget Climbing Podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022)

Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.*If you liked my episodes with Emil Abrahamsson and Martin Keller, don’t skip this one!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestoneNuggets:0:06:17 – Breakfast, considerations when building a home wall, and how to make climbing holds out of plywood0:12:24 – Skin conditioning, and dishwashing gloves0:15:19 – Applying too much stuff to our skin0:16:56 – Climbing volume, and trying to add more things to make our injuries better0:18:39 – Being obsessive0:21:15 – Jesse’s first rest day0:23:31 – Jesse’s early mentors in climbing, and taking opportunities when they come0:25:28 – Identifying as a boulderer early on, and wishing he had rested more0:27:53 – The Portland phase, and how to get pure raw strength in the climbing gym0:31:27 – Dropping out of college to hit the road for 7 months, and why Jesse’s climbing ability skyrocketed0:33:08 – The Bend phase0:35:41 – How Jesse got into coaching0:38:02 – Emotional regulation, mindset, and common mistakes0:41:01 – An introduction to Jesse’s Performance Pyramid0:43:30 – The tiers of the Performance Pyramid0:47:52 – Jesse’s consistency, and which elements of the pyramid climbers are most resistant to0:50:11 – Changing our circumstances, and thinking of our lifestyles as an investment0:52:25 – Quantum leaps0:54:07 – Spray walls, and the distractions of the climbing  gym0:56:24 – Jesse’s spray wall soapbox0:58:01 – Emotional regulation strategies (breathing and mantras)1:03:20 – Emotional regulation strategies (easy climbing with no agenda, and learning to climb alone)1:04:57 – Beta selection, and the language we speak on the wall1:07:39 – Pivoting of the torso1:11:09 – Tough Strips1:13:31 – MacGyvering solutions, and thinking outside the box1:17:30 – Beating your head against bad beta, and the importance of finishing climbs1:21:13 – “We’re all going to hit a point where we’re not climbing harder anymore.”1:25:53 – 3 tips for beginners1:32:54 – 3 tips for outdoor-focused climbers1:37:02 – Summary of 3 tips lists1:37:43 – Practicing technique on rock1:38:35 – Flashing boulders, flash ethics, and tips that helped Jesse flash his first V101:49:43 – Two hard highball first ascents that Jesse climbed in 2021 (see show notes for videos)2:00:58 – Why Jesse named one of his highballs Imposter Syndrome2:03:24 – Being proud of the two highball FAs, and Jesse’s thoughts on repeating established highballs2:04:36 – Exploring the feeling of being afraid, and exposure therapy2:05:44 – Patron question from Xander: Have you had to make changes to your training after turning 30?2:09:54 – Thinking in campaigns/seasons2:13:31 – Fear, uncertainty, and doubt (FUD)2:14:37 – Doing more training after 302:15:57 – Patron question from Joe: At what level of strength do we experience diminishing returns, and is it worth training the hinge if you can maintain that level without training it directly? (Ex. double bodyweight deadlift)2:18:25 – Patron question from Joe: What is one piece of advice Jesse wishes he had taken earlier? (mastery, and being a barbarian)2:20:44 – Patron question from Christopher: How do you handle it mentally if you start regressing on a project? (setting early goals for a session)2:22:33 – Going into projects with inertia, and knowing when to walk away2:25:03 – Why Jesse is moving to Leavenworth2:26:37 – Using a yoga block to train for narrow compression moves on a V122:29:47 – Jesse’s thoughts on what it would take for him to climb V142:35:47 – Why Jesse and I are thankful for one another, and finding a climbing partner who will cut through your bullshit

In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot!Preregister Here!https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587Gripped Article:https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-individuals-to-connect-build-community-crush-boulders/Instagram Links:@project.pride.squamish@croissant.83

This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy!Check out more episodes of ACP!americanclimbingproject.comAnd support Devin on Patreon!patreon.com/americanclimbingproject

Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community.Support Devin's Podcast!patreon.com/americanclimbingprojectCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/devin-dabneyNuggets:0:08:20 – Green screens and SpongeBob0:12:52 – How Devin and I connected, and binging his podcast0:17:41 – Devin’s vision for The American Climbing Project (ACP)0:23:30 – Using humor to poke at difficult subjects, and inviting people into conversation0:28:37 – Devin’s target audience, exposing listeners to different perspectives about race, and my (Steven’s) ignorance having grown up as a white kid from the PNW0:32:22 – Climbing as an escape, and connecting to the world around us as climbers0:33:50 – Plans for season 2 of ACP, and covering gender and sexual orientation in climbing0:35:03 – Rob, and the ACP blog0:38:23 – The skits0:39:40 – Devin and Rob’s mission to provide a tool to grow and improve the climbing community and redistribute wealth0:41:52 – The mixtape format of the ACP0:45:22 – The Black Square skit0:47:26 – Creativity, and sprints of inspiration0:48:44 – How Devin puts together one of his episodes0:52:10 – Growing up playing the violin, and getting into music production and rap0:55:58 – Devin’s 7 different jobs1:00:03 – The Great Equalizer, and Devin’s introduction to climbing1:07:13 – Feeling lost, drafting a suicide note, and how climbing changed his life1:09:15 – Studying architecture, traveling around the world, and sharing the real shit1:14:29 – Why providing access to climbing feels important to Devin, and the many reasons climbing is awesome1:17:09 – Barriers that keep climbing from being accessible/welcoming to marginalized groups of people1:24:27 – The discomfort of climbing, the civil rights movement, and why the history of climbing is white1:28:37 – Trading weed for moonshine, and the different experience of being with other white vs. black climbers1:31:24 – “I would never go hunting without a white person.”1:33:48 – The Halloween episode story, and photo releases in gym waivers1:41:58 – How the podcast has been received, and responding to criticism1:48:25 – Being reactive to headlines1:52:40 – Topics that Devin hopes to cover in future seasons of the ACP podcast2:00:12 – How to support the ACP2:05:28 – Plug Tone Audio, why Devin loves competition, and shared inspiration2:17:15 – Who Devin looks up to2:20:50 – Guests that Devin would love to hear on The Nugget2:23:48 – The depth we have as rock climbers2:25:45 – Climbers are leaders2:26:35 – What’s next for ACP

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:02:56.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingAlita's Original Episode:EP 87: Alita Contreras

Zofia Reych is a Polish climber and anthropologist and author of Born to Climb. We talked about renovating their mid-18th century house in Fontainebleau, researching the book, identifying as non-binary and directing the Women’s Bouldering Festival, what it’s like to be autistic, key chapters in climbing’s history, losing friends in the mountains, and much more.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/zofia-reychNuggets:0:06:05 – Getting back from bouldering0:08:19 – Zofia’s 240+-year-old house in Fontainebleau, and fixing the leaking toilet0:11:31 – 12th-century castles, and what will be left of our civilization in 700 years0:12:45 – Growing up in Poland, and living and bouldering in Fontainebleau0:16:30 – Expecting to get better at climbing by living in Font, and my (Steven’s) experience with the 9-5 grind0:18:27 – Our education system in the US, having direction, and Zofia’s fascination with people who start things very young0:20:09 – Zofia’s mom, piano, and romanticizing about having a single focus in life0:22:02 – The immersive process of writing a book, and the impact on Zofia’s climbing0:25:26 – Negative vs. positive motivation0:28:27 – The cycle of falling in love with climbing, feeling drive, pushing hard, and forgetting why we fell in love with it in the first place0:30:05 – “Don’t push it.”0:30:53 – Why Zofia felt like they needed to write Born to Climb0:32:00 – An overview of the book0:36:14 – Doing research for the book0:40:38 – Zofia’s master’s thesis, and why it feels outdated0:44:15 – Zofia’s gender identity (they/them), and being the director of a women’s bouldering festival0:48:13 – Zofia’s Instagram post about gender identity (see show notes for link)0:51:01 – “There shouldn’t be one recipe for how to be a human.”0:53:21 – Autism, and using an inner formula to have conversations like this one0:55:35 – Acting0:58:31 – What Zofia is like when they are alone or with their mom, being childlike without filters, and dancing in public1:01:35 – Stimming (stimulating)1:02:18 – Being diagnosed with autism at age 31, and how that has changed Zofia’s life experience1:04:43 – Being introverted in a society that rewards extroversion, and telling your life story to someone you meet in an elevator1:11:16 – What Zofia does to recharge1:12:35 – Climbing alone vs. with a group1:17:58 – The scope of Born to Climb, stories from the mid-14th century hill walking, how polar exploration influenced climbing in the Alps, and climbing’s elitist roots1:24:35 – On Stolen Land, and the uncomfortable history of Yosemite1:33:21 – Loss in climbing, the fragility of being human, and exposing ourselves to risk1:43:40 – Being responsible for your own safety, and feeling empowered1:45:55 – TrueBlue1:46:57 – Why writing the last chapter of the book was the most difficult part1:49:56 – What Zofia hopes readers take away from Born to Climb, and being a tiny spec on the timeline1:53:00 – The existential sandwich1:54:32 – Who should read Born to Climb, and where to buy it (see links in show notes)1:58:21 – Time for a nap

Karly Rager, a structural engineer turned climbing coach and founder of Project Direct Coaching, blends engineering precision with head-game work. She talks mental strategies for focus and measurable mindfulness. Conversations cover transitioning between climbing styles, using injuries as growth, building a fair coaching business, and cultivating long-term climbing longevity.

Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtboNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?(00:35:59) – Jujimufu(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt(01:11:49) – Training on rock(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring(01:38:48) – What’s next(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:14:38.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingChad's Other Episodes:EP 20: Chad AndrewsEP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt