Surf Splendor

Billy Hamilton joins us to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization’s expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60’s, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part One of Two. Enjoy! (Originally aired May 2020). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Outer Banks' finest Vlogger joins us to discuss how he entered the surf world's awareness with a 10 at Pipe, how growing up alongside YouTube primed him for the rigors of selfie stardom, the exact workload and ROI of producing weekly content, early pioneering trips to Skeleton Bay, and how leaving a decade-long relationship with a shaper has expanded his awareness of his own surfing ability. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

2x Big Wave World Champ Paige Alms joins us to discuss the gift of her mother’s wanderlust, how restaurant work financed her surf career, the Jaws incident that necessitated a jet ski purchase, and the virtues of returning to a hunter-gather lifestyle. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Underexposed multidisciplinary talent Bryce Young joins us to chat about his new film, how Burch’s unique boards broke down perceptions of his own limitations, his father’s sage and surprisingly simple advice, the devastation of losing everything to a fire, and why now is the right time to share decades of archival family footage and story. Enjoy!Intro Music: Jim James, State Of The ArtOutro Music: Yusef Lateef, The Plum Blossom Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Polymath Matt George joins us to discuss 35 years of surf writing, why surfing fosters female power and male vulnerability, the dangers of the algorithm eroding surfing's great lessons, narrowly escaping Hollywood, and why emergency relief work has become his life's passion. Enjoy!Intro/Outro Music: Allen Ginsberg and Phillip Glass, Wichita Vortex Sutra Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

22 year old surfboard shaper John Simon discusses the value of starting with a broom, developing his craft under the Trimcraft tutelage, how extreme designs deliver subtle effects, the perils of growing too quickly, and how riding other shapers boards has provided his quickest lessons learned. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The current World Longboard Champ joins us to discuss the ecstasy and obligation that comes with achieving your life's goals, the virtue and burden of being "underrated", the value of defying definition as a professional surfer in 2023, and the futile endeavor of applying a judging criteria to surfing. Enjoy!Into music: Allen Toussaint, Southern NightsOutro music: Calexico, Alone Again Or Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

New Jersey's former grom phenom Shaun Crowley joins us to discuss returning to surfing after a decade hiatus, how to sell it all and relocate your life to Mexico, why you should delete Instagram (but start a YouTube channel), and the freedom and refuge that comes with finding your community. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In Part Two, Jeff Johnson explains how he side-doored his way into becoming Patagonia’s first staff photographer, the toll of being sued by one of his surf idols, and he distills the value of being naive to your own limitations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Adventurer Jeff Johnson joins us today to explain his path from ne'er-do-well skate teen to world class photographer; from stealing lumber to build skate ramps, to lifeguarding on the North Shore, to traveling the world professionally, Jeff explains how boredom is the key to unlocking your life’s passion. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices