45 Jamie Brisick - Former Pro Surfer, Writer, Author.

What happens when surfing is no longer enough to carry you through life's heaviest moments?

In this intimate conversation, pro surfer-turned-writer Jamie Brisick opens up about the addictive nature of surfing, the trauma of losing loved ones, and how the sport that shaped his youth eventually led him toward a deeper creative and personal path.

• Discover the emotional and spiritual cost of surfing as identity—and what comes after.

• Learn how writing became Jamie's lifeline, offering expression, reflection, and recovery.

• Hear raw insights on ego, grief, addiction, and how to find purpose after the peak of performance.

Listen now to explore what surfing can teach you about aging, meaning, and finding your voice beyond the lineup.

Key Points

• Jamie Brissac's first memorable surfing experience was in Waikiki, Hawaii, where he rented a soft top surfboard and enjoyed the turquoise, sparkly water.

• Jamie started surfing because his family took him to Santa Monica State Beach, and it was a fun way to entertain the three boys.

• Surfing transitioned from play to something more serious for Jamie when he started surfing Malibu in 1979 and witnessed the Sunkist Pro contest, which inspired him to compete.

• Jamie got his first sponsorship at age 15 from McCoy surfboards, followed by Quicksilver and Rip Curl, which helped validate his pursuit of professional surfing.

• Jamie's drive to improve at surfing was fueled by his love for the sport and a holistic approach that included visualization and creative practices.

• Jamie's brother's death from a drug overdose in 1987 deeply affected him, leading to a period of repression and a focus on winning contests as a way to cope.

• Jamie found that surfing and writing are interconnected, with surfing providing a sense of lightness and levity that complements his writing practice.

• Jamie believes that wave pools will play a significant role in the future of surfing, offering a solution to the issue of crowding and providing a new experience for surfers.

• Jamie emphasizes the importance of finding one's original voice in both surfing and writing, suggesting that true self-expression comes from within rather than mimicry.

• Jamie's experience of losing his wife led to a period of deep despair, but he found solace and purpose in both surfing and writing, which helped him navigate through his grief.

http://www.jamiebrisick.com

For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we'll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we're here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.