EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition

Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from bouldering to sport climbing, gunning for the 2024 Olympics, competition strategies, outdoor goals, intuitive training and eating, power screams, and windsurfing.  

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Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maya-madere  

Nuggets:  

1:40 – Windsurfing  

8:44 – Maya’s transition from comp boulderer to outdoor sport climber  

12:06 – How Maya feels about her current climbing  

13:29 – Off-season climbing, coronavirus, and taking a break  

16:42 – Outdoor climbing vs. training, “quantity over quality”, self-coaching, and doing too much vs. too little. 

21:15 – Campusing, endurance training with Solomon Barth, and up-down-ups  

24:28 – Up-down-up details  

30:00 – Practicing climbing more quickly  

32:56 – How Maya mixes endurance with maintaining bouldering strength and power  

35:19 – Psicobloc  

38:26 – Neverending Story, and why Maya would choose competition climbing over outdoor climbing (if she had to pick one)  

41:08 – Where Maya sees her climbing going moving forward  

42:14 – Paying her way around the world through competitions, and why it wasn’t sustainable  

45:12 – The Boulderfield Master Series, compromise between school and competition rock climbing, and how Maya sees herself in relation to other top competitors  

47:37 – Computer Science  

50:27 – 2024 Olympics  

53:36 – Maya’s most memorable comp, expectations, and why she prefers to be the underdog  

57:15 – Making competing routine  

59:50 – Practice comps and mock comps  

1:02:21 – Breathing exercises and competing and altitude  

1:04:45 – Cardio  

1:06:54 – Speed climbing, and lead vs. sport  

1:08:44 – Diet and weight  

1:14:17 – Lifting, systematic vs. intuitive training, and mental energy  

1:19:55 – Breakfast, vegetables, and intuitive eating  

1:22:42 – Crafted Energy bars  

1:24:56 – Dessert  

1:26:05 – Maya’s go-to Evolv shoes  

1:28:31 – Identifying as an athlete  

1:30:18 – Maya’s outdoor and competition goals  

1:32:33 – Leisure time, Waldorf school, and crafts  

1:34:43 – Gratitude, privilege, and wanting to share  

1:38:08 – Instagram, BLM, and using her platform to share information  

1:41:33 – Power screams