The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
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Jun 24, 2024 World-class climber and coach Justen Sjong discusses mastering climbing techniques, the four stages of technique, sending faster, and his goal of climbing 9a before 60. He coaches on floating using the drop-drive-stop method and shares insights on reflection, confidence, and optimizing climbing movements.
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Drop-Drive-Stop Technique
- To improve hip movement for dynamic "float" moments, practice the "drop-drive-stop" technique.
- This involves dropping your mass, driving with your legs and toes, and stopping/hovering with core tension before latching the next hold.
Practicing Drop-Drive-Stop
- To practice drop-drive-stop, start with easy holds and progressively increase difficulty by making start holds flatter, travel holds further, and footholds smaller.
- Adjust wall angle for comfort, gradually increasing steepness as you improve.
Practicing Under Varying Conditions
- When learning a new technique, practice when fresh, then fatigued, and finally near your limit.
- This helps identify distractions and develop consistent execution under stress.