The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E191: Allison Vest - Climbing 'big boy' boulders and the work behind the success
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Mar 25, 2026 Allison Vest, a pro boulderer known for sending hard outdoor lines like The Mantra (V14) and The Expanse (V15), talks training, creative beta and her mental approach to big projects. She describes back-to-back sends, span mechanics, skin and session tactics. Conversation covers stopping traditional hangboarding, unique strengths from long levers, and how confidence and momentum shape performance.
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Stop Repeating Bottom Failures Drill The Failing Move
- When you keep falling on the same move from the bottom, stop and drill that move from the middle until reliable.
- Allison advises low-point linking or repeating the specific failing move to avoid wasting tries and skin.
Prioritize Skin And Rest Over Constant Mileage On Trips
- Prioritize decisions that maximise long-term chance to send: pack in early, rest skin, and plan sessions rather than blindly accumulating mileage.
- Allison warns trips require different tactics; resting before key days often beats constant mileage.
Short Crimpy Problems Are Driven By Mindset And Conditions
- Session reflection is often about mental state and conditions rather than micro-beta on ultra-short crimpy problems.
- For Mantra Allison learned to diagnose weather, mindset, and skin as primary session drivers rather than tiny hold changes.