The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E150: Ben Norman and Cailean Harker - Route setting deep dive, grades in indoor climbing and the state of the industry
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May 28, 2025 Ben Norman and Cailean Harker, co-founders of Impact Route Setting and seasoned route setters in the UK, share insights about the climbing industry. They delve into the nuances of indoor grading and the impact of recent IFSC scoring changes on route setting. The duo emphasizes the importance of creativity and safety in route design while navigating the evolving expectations of climbers. They also tackle the balance between aesthetics and functionality in climbing holds, and reflect on fostering inclusivity in climbing experiences for all skill levels.
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Creativity Elevates Route Setting
- Climbing ability isn't the only factor; movement understanding and creativity matter more for great route setting.
- Top setters add imagination beyond solid foundational skills.
Develop New Setters Proactively
- Training new route setters is essential to fill gaps caused by climbing wall expansion.
- Structured education and mentorship can help fast-track setter development.
Subjectivity Limits Route Setting Qualifications
- Qualifications for judging route setting quality are tough due to subjectivity.
- Route setting ability is hard to standardize because climbers perceive climbs differently.