The MoMA Magazine Podcast “That’s Why Lil’ Kim and Flo-Jo Matter”: Talking About Nail Art
Sep 2, 2025
In this conversation, Tressie McMillan Cottom, a professor and writer, delves into the captivating history of nail art and its profound ties to beauty, power, and freedom. She highlights how societal expectations shape our perceptions of beauty, particularly for women of color. The talk journeys through the evolution of nail artistry as a form of personal expression and resistance, using examples like sprinter Florence Griffith Joyner to illustrate how bold nail styles become symbols of individuality. It's a celebration of nails as both art and activism.
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Nails Encode Respectability Rules
- Nail styles become coded markers of wealth, respectability, or marginalization.
- Acceptable shapes and colors often map onto who is deemed professional or respectable.
Flo-Jo’s Nails As Cultural Rebellion
- The episode uses Florence Griffith Joyner as a vivid example of long nails and bold style in sports.
- Tressie recalls Flo-Jo's nails as a refusal to conform and a Black-rooted expression of femininity.
Family Teasing Over Nail Care
- Margarita recalls family teasing when her aunt did nails at a Sunday cookout and how grooming was moralized.
- She learned manicure skills early and felt judged for bold choices like pointy tips.
