Surf Mastery - Surfing Tips and Wisdom for Lifelong Surfers 135: From Presidential Speechwriter to Surfer – David Litt
Feb 24, 2026
David Litt, former White House speechwriter turned memoirist, writes about learning to surf at 35. He talks about cold-water lineups, why surfing hooked him during depression, the shame and fear of wipeouts, chasing flow and barrels, skate-to-surf skills, and how the lineup strips away social roles. Short, witty, and observant reflections on surfing, writing, and humility in the water.
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Surfing As Artful Self Expression
- Surfing combines sport and art, offering self-expression beyond pure athleticism.
- Litt watches surfers and sees them 'expressing themselves' on different boards and styles, not just technical performance.
Progression Is Chasing New Feelings Not Just Skill
- Many surfers chase novel feelings, not just better performance.
- Litt contrasts running faster with getting barreled: barreling unlocks a new indescribable sensation he can't reach by marginally improving technique.
The First Hold-Down That Revealed Surfing's Fear
- Litt recounts his first real hold-down by a wave and how terrifying it was.
- He compares surfing panic to skiing, saying it's like every ski run started with an avalanche and that evolutionary fear complicates learning.
