This Is TASTE 617: Masala y Maíz Is Rooting Deep in Mexico City
Jul 2, 2025
Norma Listman and Saqib Keval, the innovative chefs behind Masala y Maíz in Mexico City, delve into their unique approach to culinary fusion that marries Indian, East African, and Mexican traditions. They discuss their commitment to creating an equitable restaurant environment that prioritizes their workers, as well as the excitement of expanding to a new location. The duo also reflects on their memorable experiences shooting for Chef’s Table and navigating the challenges of cultural authenticity in a social media-driven dining scene.
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From Research Trip to Restaurant Launch
- They canceled a planned research trip to Japan to open Masala y Maíz in Mexico City within two weeks.
- Saqib broke his lease and sold his car to move and start the restaurant with Norma.
Esquites Makaipaka Explains Mestizaje
- The esquites makaipaka dish at Masala y Maíz exemplifies mestizaje, blending Mexican esquites with Kenyan coconut corn stew.
- This dish embodies a complex history of migration, colonization, and cultural intersections without being gimmicky fusion.
Rethinking Fusion Terminology
- The term "fusion" often erases complex cultural histories and can feel extractive, especially when used by dominant groups.
- "Mestizaje" or "third culture" better reflect the lived, intertwined culinary experiences of immigrant communities.
