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How I went from being a new mum on food stamps to an anonymous restaurant critic, worldwide

Feb 25, 2026
Besha Rodell, chief restaurant critic at The Age and author of Hunger Like a Thirst, began in hospitality and rose through food writing. She talks about the thrill of fine dining, anonymous review routines and why anonymity mattered, growing up on a wild farm, surviving poverty as a new mother, and the highs and lows of life in kitchens from North Carolina to New York and Melbourne.
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INSIGHT

How Thorough Restaurant Criticism Works

  • Besha follows a research-driven review formula: multiple anonymous visits, different companions and deep cultural/historical context research.
  • She visits busy and quiet nights, asks chefs many questions, and traces dish histories (e.g., pasta with Morton Bay Bug) to judge significance.
ANECDOTE

Starting As An Anonymous Critic

  • Besha began as an anonymous critic when anonymity was standard in the 2000s and she wasn't on Facebook, which made the disguise lore part of the job.
  • She later lost anonymity as digital age exposure grew and now misses the ability to experience restaurants unrecognised.
ANECDOTE

First Restaurant Magic At Stephanie's

  • Besha's first fancy-restaurant memory came from a 10th birthday dinner at Stephanie's in Melbourne that felt like entering a fairy-tale mansion.
  • She remembers the room, brocade curtains and being able to 'pretend to be a princess', which fixed fine dining as the apex of luxury for her.
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