The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E195: Yosemite season round up, news and desert island boulders
10 snips
Apr 22, 2026 A round‑up of a big Yosemite season, including the tactics, injuries and decision to pause a long project. A catch‑up on Bishop trips, skin struggles and memorable sends. A debate about IFSC rules and the ethics of publicising hidden boulders. A playful revisit of desert island boulder picks with nostalgic and varied selections.
AI Snips
Chapters
Books
Transcript
Episode notes
Aidan’s Six Degrees Season Struggle
- Aidan spent a season focused on Six Degrees but stopped when leg pain and poor conditions limited progress.
- He had clear early-season gains, a mid-season heatwave break helped his shoulder but worsened his leg, leaving him unable to hit the crux reliably.
Limit Tries When Sequence Drains Specific Muscles
- Limit session volume when a boulder’s moves heavily tax a few body parts to preserve quality attempts.
- Aidan often had only four good tries because the crux sequence drained his left gaston/right foot effort and fatigued him quickly.
Bad Conditions Amplify Overgripping And Injury Risk
- Poor conditions force compensatory effort that increases fatigue and causes new niggles.
- Aidan noted trying Six Degrees in less sticky, humid conditions made him overgrip and alter movement, which likely contributed to shoulder and leg issues.
