The Big Dig Presents: Catching The Codfather What you need to know when buying fish, with Roger Berkowitz
Apr 1, 2026
Roger Berkowitz, founder of Roger's Fish Company and builder of Legal Seafoods, shares stories from a fish-market childhood to introducing monkfish to Julia Child. He demystifies fresh vs frozen, why bones boost flavor, the rise of sardines and sea vegetables, challenges with dogfish and cod, and tips for spotting thawed fish and perfect fish and chips.
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How Julia Child Turned Monkfish From Trash To Treasure
- Roger Berkowitz discovered monkfish by buying a crate labeled “monkey tails” at the fish pier and brought it to Julia Child, who popularized it on TV and in her book.
- The monkfish is grotesque-looking with a massive head; chefs use only the tail, which became valued after Julia showcased it.
Why American Seafood Diet Is Narrow
- Americans eat very few species: roughly 86% of seafood consumption comes from about 10 species, driven largely by aversion to bones.
- Roger attributes this narrow palette to cultural habits around bones and the rise of boneless favorites like tuna and shrimp.
Buy Last Days Catch Not Mechanically Frozen Fish
- Prefer fish from the last one or two days of a boat trip rather than mechanically frozen product to avoid watery, flavorless flesh.
- Ask trusted fishmongers about turnover and look for glossy sheen and moist texture to spot true fresh fish.