The Power Company Climbing Podcast

TAPED TIPS | Stuck In The Middle: The Most Common Movement Error Made By Advanced Climbers

9 snips
Jan 29, 2026
A breakdown of the single movement error that keeps advanced climbers stuck. Short examples challenge you to spot hesitation between static control and dynamic momentum. Discussion covers tricky situations like crosses and underclings and how indecision sabotages performance. Practical coaching advice pushes you to commit, practice both solutions, and train tactics near your limit.
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INSIGHT

Indecision Hides As A Position Problem

  • Advanced climbers often get stuck between two movement solutions: control and momentum.
  • That indecision, not positional weakness, is a major gap between advanced and elite climbers.
ANECDOTE

Roland's Yell Changed His Approach

  • Chris Hampton describes being corrected by Roland Chen for wavering mid-move.
  • That interruption led him to consistently make the move correctly afterward.
INSIGHT

Releasing Tension At The Wrong Time

  • Hesitation causes climbers to start a static attempt then switch late to dynamic, releasing needed tension.
  • That timing error makes catching the target hold much harder or inefficient.
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