The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E190: Keenan Takahashi - 10 seconds of fear a year, the pros and cons of large egos and getting distracted by trees
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Mar 18, 2026 Keenan Takahashi, boulderer and prolific first-ascensionist known for highball, aesthetic problems and projects like Dreadnought. He talks about discovering and sending sketchy lines, debating bolting and ground-up ethics, wrestling with ego and its costs, his '10 seconds of fear a year' idea, and how design and long-form media shape his Antigrav work.
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Bolt If Logistics Make Safe Repeats Unreasonable
- Do consider bolting precarious boulders when logistics make safe top-rope rehearsal impractical for future repeaters.
- Keenan hand-bolted Dreadnought after deciding repeated three-hour rope rigs risked someone getting hurt.
The Perfect Send Day Came From Rehearsal And Calm
- Keenan recalls the final on-sight-from-ground moment on Dreadnought: perfect conditions, clean linking, and a supportive crew of friends.
- He emphasizes getting into a calm headspace (looking at a tree/sky) and having rehearsed the moves extensively on rope beforehand.
Fear Is Mostly Future Anticipation Not Present Danger
- Sam and Keenan note fear usually comes from anticipating future consequences, not immediate moment-to-moment danger.
- Practising moves and rehearsing reduces in-the-moment fear and improves performance on risky highballs.