Lattice Training Podcast How the Mind Hacks Your Training Session
Apr 13, 2024
Coach Josh Hadley chats with Cam Hartley about training myths, psychobiology in endurance performance, and the importance of consistency in climbing training. They explore myths, aerobic thresholds, and mental fatigue impact on performance, making it a must-listen for climbers seeking to improve endurance and debunk training misconceptions.
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Reverse Engineer Sends With A Post Send Email
- Cam used reverse engineering with a client who struggled with belief to reach 8C+, prompting the client to write an imagined post-send email with step-by-step process.
- That self-authored checklist became the actionable process the client used in sessions and led to the send.
Reduce Mental Fatigue With A 20 Minute Switch Off
- Do take a 20-minute break to sit and switch off before a training session to reduce mental fatigue.
- Avoid scrolling on your phone during that break because social media adds mental fatigue; simple rest or mindfulness is equally effective.
Climbing Aerobic Work Is Local and Shorter Than Cycling
- Climbers' aerobic training should be judged locally (forearms) not by whole-body norms; 5 minutes can be very demanding and build to 30 minutes over weeks.
- Cam did arc training on a 20° juggy wall, progressing from 5 to 30 minutes while practicing micro-skills like hip twist and knee bars.