
New Books in History Sarah Jones Weicksel, "A Nation Unraveled: Clothing, Culture, and Violence in the American Civil War Era" (UNC Press, 2026)
Feb 27, 2026
Sarah Jones Weicksel, historian of material culture who studies clothing and violence in the Civil War era. She discusses how garments shaped loyalties, labor, and identity. Topics include who made and mended uniforms, how clothing signaled rank and masculinity, supply shortages and improvisation, looting and the erasure of bodies, and why people preserved garments as memory.
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Clothing As A Battlefield For Wartime Anxieties
- Clothing served as a material ground where Americans negotiated wartime anxieties like loyalty, social order, and emancipation.
- Sarah Jones Weicksel shifted from studying looting to clothing because sources repeatedly showed garments shaping political and personal experiences.
Women's Sewing Was Often Commanded Labor
- Women rarely sewed uniforms purely as volunteer craft; elite Southern women often directed enslaved women or working-class seamstresses to produce clothing.
- Sherman's removal of 400 Roswell mill women by charge of treason shows clothing labor was treated as militaryly significant.
Brass Manhood Encoded Rank And Identity
- Brass and gilt on uniforms encoded rank, patriotism, and virility — a visual "brass manhood" culture.
- Newspapers and even playing cards taught civilians to decode buttons, shoulder straps, and braid to read military status.

