21 Ben Macartney - Surf Forecaster

What if understanding the science behind waves could help you catch the best waves every time? In this episode, surf forecaster Ben Macartney reveals the secrets of predicting and scoring perfect surf conditions.

From great circle paths to local bathymetry, every wave you ride is shaped by a complex set of factors. Whether you're planning your next surf trip or mastering your local break, Ben's expert insights will help you connect the dots between surf forecasts and real-world conditions.

• Learn how to analyze swell charts beyond the basics to uncover hidden gems at your favorite spots.

• Discover why understanding wind direction, period, and secondary swells is critical for predicting surf quality.

• Gain exclusive tips on using live wind feeds and buoy data to refine your surf planning.

Hit play and unlock the forecasting tools and techniques you need to take your surfing to the next level.

Key Points

• Waves are primarily generated by wind at the sea surface, not by tides or currents.

• The key factors for wave growth are the strength, length, and duration of the wind fetch.

• Storm systems with a combination of low and high pressure systems generate the strongest wind fetches for wave growth.

• The orientation and movement of the storm system relative to the coast affects the swell direction and size.

• Secondary swells and wind swells can interact with the primary swell, affecting wave quality.

• Local bathymetry and geography influence how swells refract and focus at specific surf breaks.

• Swells follow great circle paths due to the Earth's curvature, allowing remote swells to reach distant coastlines.

• Atmospheric pressure changes can affect sea levels, impacting surf conditions at reef breaks and slabs.

• Observing and understanding local swell patterns is crucial for predicting surf conditions accurately.

https://surfmastery.com/podcast/ben-macartney-surf-forecaster

For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we'll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we're here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.