The Current Lesley Chesterman on how to cook like a Montrealer
Mar 25, 2026
Lesley Chesterman, cookbook author and former Montreal restaurant critic, celebrates her city’s food culture. She explores what makes Montreal a culinary capital. Conversations cover multicultural influences, iconic staples like bagels and smoked meat, home-hosting tips and learning to cook by senses.
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From Ballet To Critic Guided By Early Role Model
- Chesterman became a restaurant critic after years in kitchens and ballet, inspired by Helen Rochester's analytical reviews.
- She enjoyed using constructive criticism to guide readers to restaurants rather than only denounce them.
Critic Backlash Included Death Threats And Midnight Emails
- Early in her critic career a chef threatened her after a negative review, showing how personal restaurants take criticism.
- She received four a.m. angry emails and once a drunk chef called and threatened violence.
Restaurants Must Express Their Place
- Anthony Bourdain taught that great restaurants should tell you something about their city rather than be interchangeable.
- Chesterman recounts Bourdain praising Joe Beef and Au Pied de Cochon while saying a top gastronomic spot 'could be anywhere.'
